6 Financial Moves for Mid-Career Pharmacists

Are you a mid-career pharmacist who’s tackled some of the financial planning basics but is left wondering, “What’s next?”

You’re not alone!

Whether you’re feeling confident in your current trajectory or are wondering if you need a financial tune-up, we’ve got you covered with six financial moves to make as a mid-career pharmacist.

1. Recast the Vision of Your Financial Plan

This point in your pharmacy career (10-30 years after graduation) is the perfect time to reflect on financial (and personal!) goals you previously set, take note of where you currently are with those goals, and reset the vision of them if needed.
 
The truth is that this phase of life often brings a lot of transition. Depending on your age and when or if you had children, you may be beginning to think about them moving out of the house. Maybe you have elderly parents that you’re trying to prioritize or plan for their future care. Perhaps you’re beginning to think about retirement and are wondering if you’re on track. Or maybe you’re still in the thick of trying to take care of yourself prioritizing the needs of your children.
 
No matter what you’re facing, this is an opportunity to take a step back and look at the vision and the goals for your financial plan, how those goals changed over time, and reset your goals and how you’re going to fund them if needed.
 

2. Savings, Savings, Savings

This step of the checklist includes your emergency fund and taking a pulse on your retirement savings.

Let’s dig in. 

Emergency Funds

We recently released a podcast episode that took a deep dive into emergency funds, including how to determine if it’s adequately funded and optimized.

If you haven’t recently revisited your emergency fund and the reserves you have on hand, now is a good time to do so as there is a possibility that your needs have changed. 

For an emergency fund, what we’re looking for is three to six months of non-discretionary monthly expenses. These are expenses that have to be paid whether you are working or not, including mortgage or rent payments, utilities, insurance premiums, and food. After you add up all of your non-discretionary expenses, multiply that by three if you have two household incomes or by six if you have one household income. This gives you the number that you should have saved in your emergency fund. 

Typically for Your Financial Pharmacist planning clients, we see anywhere between $15,000-%50,000 that’s needed to be saved in an emergency fund. 

Retirement

Have you recently wondered if you’re on track for retirement? 

Pharmacists we talk to at this mid-career stage often feel like they are getting hit in every direction. 

Between kids’ expenses, kids’ college needs, retirement savings, caring for elderly parents, and paying off remaining debt, there are a lot of financial and personal priorities. Because of all of these different pressures, sometimes the retirement piece falls to the side or wasn’t a top priority for a while, and now, as you get to a point of being able to visualize retirement more, you may be wondering if your retirement savings are on track.

Check out these podcast episodes in our retirement series that dig into retirement savings, how to determine how much is enough for retirement, nest egg calculations, and how to build a retirement paycheck:

Don’t miss downloading this free guide: Retirement Roadblocks – Identifying and Managing 10 Common Risks

3. Social Security 

If you haven’t looked at ssa.gov to see what your social security statement or projected benefits look like, now is the time to do so. 

Having an understanding of your projected social security benefits at retirement and how that fits into your nest egg calculation and overall financial plan is crucial.

To learn more about social security and mistakes to avoid making as a pharmacist, take a listen to these podcast episodes: 

4. Estate Planning

Number four on our list of mid-career moves to consider making as a pharmacist is all about the estate plan. 

We dug into this in detail on YFP 310: Dusing Off the Estate Plan.

Unfortunately, estate planning is a part of the financial plan that’s often ignored or isn’t given enough attention. Doing a beneficiary check and ensuring that you have estate planning documents in place so that your dependents and family are protected is so important.

The reality is, getting these documents in place isn’t fun to think about and it’s so easy to push this task to the side. This is your call to action to either update, take a fresh look at your estate planning documents, or get them created. 

5. Conversations with Aging Parents

It’s not uncommon to see mid-career pharmacists entering a new stage of caring for their elderly parents. This is not only an emotional and time investment, but can also be a financial expense that you need to consider.

On top of that, knowing if your parents have the right estate planning documents in place or even having a deeper understanding and transparency of their financial situation can be valuable.

But how do you have these sometimes very hard and awkward conversations?

We had Cameron Huddleston, award-winning journalist and author of Mom and Dad, We Need to Talk, on YFP 321: Navigating Financial Conversations with Aging Parents. This one is a must-listen.

6. Insurance Check-Up

We often talk about term-life and long-term disability insurance at the front end of someone’s pharmacy career, but it’s important to re-evaluate these policies in your 30s, 40s, and 50s. 

For example, if you bought a 20-year term life policy in your early 20s or 30s and now you are in your 40s or 50s, does it still provide adequate coverage for your family if something were to happen to you? Do you need to supplement your policy in any way because your earnings have continued to climb?

Other items to consider is looking into long-term care insurance, especially in your 40s or 50s, and property and casualty insurance.

We dig into long-term care insurance in this podcast episode:

Conclusion

If you’re a mid-career pharmacist interested in how working with our team of CERTIFIED FINANCIAL PLANNERS™ at Your Financial Pharmacist can support you on your personal financial plan, which would touch on these six areas as well as many more, click here to learn more.

If you’re ready to take the next step, click here to book a free discovery call with our team.

NFTs 101 for the Pharmacy Professional

NFTs 101 for the Pharmacy Professional

The following is a guest post from Samantha Boartfield, PharmD.  Samantha Boartfield is a pharmacist in Phoenix, Arizona, who also writes for women and mother entrepreneurs (Mamapreneurs) on her site at SamanthaBrandon.com.

Disclaimer: This post is intended for general, educational purposes only. This post and the information herein are in no way meant to serve or act as a replacement for professional investment advice. Investing in cryptocurrency or NFTs may be high-risk with high losses and should be done at the investor’s sole risk.

If you’re scanning your newsfeed in the morning, I’m willing to bet you’ve seen NFTs making their headlines more often than ever these days. Watching people pay millions of dollars for an NFT and high-profilers like Marc Cuban endorsing them had me scratching my head until I finally took the time to understand the basics.

Because really. What exactly is an NFT?

This is a question that is being asked more and more in the pharmacy community. With unprecedented student loan balances and financial futures to secure, many of us may be wondering if we should be jumping into the digital world of cryptocurrencies or NFTs. It seems like all healthcare professionals have been trialing at least one online side hustle or another to generate some extra income.

If you’re looking to gain foundational knowledge of the NFT space, this article is meant to provide a high-level overview. Now, let’s start with the basics.

What is an NFT?

To define an NFT, you have to have some basic understanding of blockchain and cryptocurrency, as NFTs are built on the blockchain and often paid for by cryptocurrencies.

Blockchain

Blockchain is, simply put, a public digital ledger. Everyone in the world has access to it. When a transaction is made, such as Person A sending cryptocurrency to Person B, the details of the transaction are packaged up into code, put in a digital “block,” and then added to the end of a blockchain. Because this is a public ledger, everyone in the world sees this purchase (so you can’t dispute it), and once a block is made, it cannot be altered (doing so would be caught by the other millions of users who would recognize the alteration).

I like to think of blockchain as a giant poster in a public square, where everyone writes their trades for everyone to see. When a transaction is done in front of the entire town, you can’t dispute it and say you didn’t receive or send the money. Now just digitize this experience and amplify it on a global scale.

Cryptocurrency

Cryptocurrencies are digital money that utilizes the blockchain to trade directly. You likely know the popular versions such as Bitcoin, Dogecoin, or Ether. Each currency has its own blockchain standard and is a decentralized method of exchange.

Another important note is that crypto is “fungible,” which means each coin is just as valuable as another coin. Think of this as the U.S. dollar; a $20 bill is just as valuable as another $20 bill.

If you would like a better foundation of this, I recommend reading Cryptocurrency 101 for the Pharmacy Professional first for a more in-depth review.

That leads us to an NFT, which stands for “Non-Fungible Token”.

These tokens are not interchangeable like bitcoin, but rather each token is unique or “non-fungible.” And that’s because each NFT is attached to the URL of a digital or physical asset.

So instead of just having the simple details of a crypto transaction (like the sender, receiver, and the amount), an NFT will include other details such as the URL of the product you are attaching. Therefore, each NFT acts as a unique identifier of a digital asset that is secured on the blockchain.

The Smart Contract

Now, I would be remiss if I didn’t fully explain how the NFT can be transferred and packaged into the blockchain, and that answer is simple: through the use of a smart contract. Essentially, a smart contract is a bit of code that is written to automatically execute a contract when certain conditions or terms are met.

In the case of NFTs, the contract will include the URL of the digital file, as well as any other details that should be included, such as the seller, buyer price, and any royalties that could be owed.

To summarize: A smart contract operates under certain conditions that when met, will automatically execute its contents (in our case selling/giving away coins).

I think I’m following you. Can you give me an example?

As a recap, an NFT is a way to transfer a digital or physical product from one person to another, with this transaction being done on the blockchain and often purchased or sold through cryptocurrencies.

Now, as I mentioned, you can attach virtually anything to NFTs. Digital art and collectibles have by far been the most popular. CryptoPunks is one of the most popular collectible NFTs. Bleeple, a very well-known digital artist, created a collage of 5,000 original artworks and is the most expensive NFT sold to one owner, just shy of $70 million. Major brands have also jumped into the scene, including Disney, Louis-Vuitton, and Coca-Cola.

And NFTs are not limited to artwork. Since you can attach anything (including physical products), they have been used for entertainment purposes such as Coachella tickets to selling the first home as an NFT in Florida.

So, if I purchase an NFT, that means I own whatever product is attached, correct?

Okay, this is where it can be a bit complicated. Just because you purchased an NFT does not mean you have full rights to the product. 

Ownership does not equal copyright, and many people confuse this.

What you own depends on the contract terms of the NFT that you purchased, and each may have its own degree of what extent you can use it.

Here’s a relatable example: Let’s say you purchased a physical, collectible copy of Leonardo da Vinci’s Vitruvian Man. Does that mean you own the copyrights to Vitruvian Man? Can you make more copies of it and distribute it? Surely, if you have a physical copy that you purchased and a printer. So you have the capability to distribute it as you please?

We all know that the answer is, of course not. Just because you own a copy of Vitruvian Man, doesn’t mean you own the copyrights of the product.

So I don’t get a physical product. I don’t own the copyrights. What’s the point?

At this point, you may be wondering, what’s the point? I don’t have a physical copy to hang up. I don’t own the copyrights. What do I do with an NFT? 

There are many ways to enjoy an NFT. First, you can display your NFT digitally in many ways including social media accounts or digital frames. Like any other collectible, you can hang on to it as an ‘investment’ and resell it later.

The better question yet is, what is the appeal of an NFT?

The biggest appeal to artists going the NFT route comes down to one word: Royalties.

If you’re an artist wanting to sell a photograph or artwork you have two options. You can go the traditional route and sell that printed photograph to the highest bidder. Or, you can turn your photograph into an NFT and attach royalties. This means that every time the artwork is resold in the secondary market, the artist can receive a royalty that they have predetermined (typically anywhere from 5-10%). 

As you can imagine, this is very appealing to artists, as typically subsequent sales tend to be much higher than initial sales.

How Do You Buy, Sell, and Trade NFTs?

One of the biggest obstacles to making NFTs mainstream is that there is quite the learning curve, particularly when it comes to buying and selling them.

To purchase or buy NFTs, you will need a few things:

1. Cryptocurrency

NFTs are almost always bought and sold using cryptocurrency. The majority of NFTs are made on the Ethereum blockchain, so you will need to purchase some Ether via a crypto exchange such as Coinbase or Gemini. Solana is another blockchain that has been rising in popularity for NFTs.

2. NFT Wallet

Next, you’ll need an NFT wallet that’s capable of trading NFTs. From one of these, you’ll be able to sell and receive your NFT, as well as view your assets. You don’t actually store your NFTs in this wallet, because remember, your NFT is stored on the blockchain with access to a URL for your product. 

There are two types of wallets: “hot” or software wallets, and “cold” or hardware wallets. Software wallets, such as MetaMask or Trust Wallet, are popular ways to trade NFTs. However, because they’re connected to the internet it leaves them susceptible to hacks. Therefore, it’s recommended that you always backup your NFTs with a hardware wallet, which is not connected online and will protect them from hacks. 

3. NFT Marketplace

This is where you will buy and trade NFTs (think of this as eBay or Etsy). Some are more exclusive, where they individually curate the NFTs that they present on their marketplace. Others are open-access marketplaces where anyone can buy and sell on the platform. Some popular NFT marketplaces are Opensea or Nifty Gateway.

Other companies have also created their own marketplaces such as NBA Topshots, which sells NBA NFTs exclusively. Veve Marketplace has also partnered with Disney to release its Golden Moments collection.

What Are Some of the Potentials of NFTs?

NFTs are such a new field that only time will tell if this is going to be the future of the way transactions are done or if it’s a short-lived concept. Here are some reasons that NFT technology may be here to stay:

1. Cuts Out the Middle Man

NFTs are stored on a blockchain, which means that there is no need for a third party such as Paypal to facilitate the transaction. This also eliminates fees that come with using a third party (but replaced with blockchain fees).

2. Transactions Without Borders

Since NFTs are stored on a blockchain, they can be traded with anyone in the world as long as they have cryptocurrency. This makes international transactions much easier than traditional methods, which involve wire transfers and banks.

3. Royalties for Artists

As we mentioned before, NFTs have the potential to revolutionize the way artists are paid for their work. By attaching royalties to their NFTs, artists can receive a percentage of every sale made in the secondary market.

This could create a whole new stream of income for artists and help support them financially.

4. The Metaverse & Gaming

The Metaverse is a term used to describe the virtual world that has been up and coming. NFTs are being used in the Metaverse as a way to represent ownership of virtual property and assets. As we see the Metaverse expanding, NFTs will likely have a role.

Play-to-earn gaming is another gaming industry that’s on the rise.  It’s a model where gamers can earn rewards by playing video games. NFTs are being introduced into P2E gaming as a way to reward gamers for their achievements.

5. Brand Expansion

Luxury brands are taking notice, and have jumped into NFTs to increase their brand marketing strategies. Also, it’s an easy way for them to generate sales as the costs to create are very low, with a high marginal profit percentage.

What Are Some of the Downfalls of NFTs?

1. Hacks and Security Concerns

Even with an immutable blockchain, scams and hacks are still rampant. Hackers may not be able to change the code on your NFT, but they certainly can attempt to empty your NFT wallet and run with your assets. And because there’s no central authority, if this occurs, then there’s not much you can do. It’s important you store anything valuable on a hardware wallet to prevent this from happening.

Also, how do you know the NFT you are purchasing is legitimate? It’s similar to buying a fake designer bag, you need to know what to look for when you’re purchasing to protect yourself from getting scammed.

2. High Transaction Fees

Another potential downside of NFTs is that transaction fees can be high. Whenever you make a transaction that has to be added to the blockchain, there is a fee for doing so. This fee is also not standardized and fluctuates hourly depending on how many users are on the network.

3. Regulations, Regulations, Regulations

The world of NFTs is still largely unregulated. Governments have only just begun to take notice and it’s unclear what their stance will be on NFTs. How will NFTs hold under the Copyright Act? Only time will tell.

4. Volatility

As I’m writing this, NFT sales have plunged and are flatlining. NFT investments are very volatile, so it’s important to only risk what you’re okay with losing.

In Summary

At the end of the day, it’s important to see what NFTs are for what they are: a novel piece of technology that can transfer digital or physical assets across the blockchain. They have the potential to change many industries by simplifying transactions between parties, but they are still in their infancy. Do your research and invest carefully.

 

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Cryptocurrency 101 for the Pharmacy Professional

Cryptocurrency 101 for the Pharmacy Professional

The following is a guest post from Samantha Boartfield, PharmD.  Samantha Boartfield is a pharmacist in Phoenix, Arizona, who also writes for women and mother entrepreneurs (Mamapreneurs) on her site at SamanthaBrandon.com.

Disclaimer: This post is intended for general, educational purposes only. This post and the information herein is in no way meant to serve or act as a replacement for professional investment advice. Investing in cryptocurrency may be high risk with high losses and should be done at the sole risk of the investor. The following post contains affiliate links through which YFP may receive compensation.

I used to wave off cryptocurrency, thinking it was an online currency fad exclusive to techies and gamers. It seemed like one giant experiment (and I’m no gambler), but I think you could argue that we’re already in phase III of this currency trial with millions of users already testing the waters. Are we in the 1990s of the internet, and will crypto become a revolutionizing technology that changes our entire financial system? Or is this going to be the digital tulip craze 2.0?

Only time will tell, but before you get caught in the hype, it’s more important to understand the foundations behind cryptocurrency to make that determination for yourself.

Let’s start from the beginning with the history of money.

The Origins of National Currency

It’s hard to understand cryptocurrency without understanding the simple concept of money. Why do we as a society put any value into the U.S. Dollar? After all, it is a piece of paper that doesn’t serve a single human need like food or shelter (a house made of dollar bills certainly doesn’t seem very stable).

It all started in the early days of bartering. You know, I’ll give you five tomatoes in exchange for a kilo of flour. The trouble with that is you can’t grow a large society based on that type of trading system. How many tomatoes would it take to buy a house? What if you still wanted those tomatoes, but the tomato producer needed olive oil instead?

That’s where currency comes into play. It acts as a medium of exchange so that indirect transfer of goods can be made. Instead of trading direct goods, we exchange currency that has a unit of measurement. Fast-forwarding the history of a few millennia (salt, seashells, metal coins, gold, paper notes), we now find ourselves using national currencies.

Fiat Currency

No, I’m not talking about the Italian car driving down the Amalfi coast. Investopedia defines fiat currency as “government-issued currency that is not backed by a physical commodity such as gold or silver, but rather by the government that issued it.” The reason the U.S. Dollar has value (and other countries’ currencies) is because it is backed by the United States government. That’s why if you go to another country and try to spend your dollars, they may not accept it or give you a funny look. Your dollar bills aren’t worth anything in their economy since there’s no guarantee from their government that those specific paper bills will hold any value tomorrow, next week, or even next year!

Since leaving the gold standard, fiat currency has had its benefits, including being traded as a widely accepted legal tender, the relative stability for short-term and long-term investments, and a central authority to help manage the economy.

The Pitfalls of Fiat

Taking a step back, there is one crucial aspect we need to remember about the history of currencies. There has always been a transition to a newer currency because the newer currency met a need that the former did not. Gold trumped silver thanks to its scarcity of resources and its chemical stability. The gold standard gave way to fiat because it couldn’t keep up with the demand.

So what about the pitfalls of fiat money? Although it’s hard to fathom a world not operating on the dollar, I believe if you asked your parents or grandparents if they believed the majority of transactions would be done with a phone or plastic card, they would laugh at you. It would have been unfathomable to not be using physical dollars and coins.

And now we find ourselves asking if fiat currency will give way to cryptocurrency due to the pitfalls we are facing such as:

  • Inflation or Hyperinflation: This article couldn’t be timed better as we all have felt the effects of inflation. If you keep printing money, then money loses its value. Milton Friedman said it best, “Inflation is taxation without legislation.” Check out Episode 239 on the YFP Podcast where Tim and Tim talk more about inflation. 
  • Rise of the “Bubble”: Remember the mortgage crisis in 2007? Central banks weren’t able to prevent it.

This is a good time to transition to what is cryptocurrency, and if it can solve some of these problems we’ve discussed.

Step Aside Printing: It’s All About Mining and Staking.

BlockChain

Let’s first discuss the technology behind cryptocurrency, which is blockchain digital ledger technology. A digital ledger is a way to record transactions using code. When you hear people talk about “the blockchain,” they’re referring to the fact that these digital ledgers are chained together.

In simple terms, this is how it works:

A transaction is made and verified by computers in the network. The transaction is then stamped as a block and added to the end of the chain. Once it’s added to the chain, it cannot be altered or removed.

The best part about this technology is that it doesn’t require a central authority to manage or verify these transactions! So what does that mean for us?

Well, let’s say you wanted to buy your friend a coffee with cryptocurrency. The transaction would go something like this:

You and your friend’s computers would communicate that you want to make a transaction.

Your transaction is verified by the network of computers, and once it’s verified, it gets added as a block to the chain.

Your friend now has his coffee and you have your cryptocurrency. Yay!

Consensus Mechanisms

Now, all blockchains have this foundation, but they may differ slightly. One way they differ is with their consensus mechanisms, which are essentially the way that the network of computers agrees on the validity of a transaction.

The two most common consensus mechanisms are proof-of-work (POW) and proof-of-stake (POS).

Proof-of-Work (PoW)

With PoW, also known as mining, transactions are verified by computer nodes that solve complex mathematical problems. The first node to solve the problem gets to add the next block of transactions to the chain and is rewarded with cryptocurrency for their trouble! This is known as “mining” cryptocurrency.

Proof-of-Stake (PoS)

With PoS, instead of being rewarded for solving math problems, nodes are chosen randomly to verify transactions and add blocks based on how much cryptocurrency they have “staked” or put down as collateral. This system is said to be more energy-efficient than POW because there is no need for every single computer to solve the same mathematical problems as they race to be the fastest.

Which consensus mechanism is better? They both have their pros and cons.

The big thing to know is that PoW requires a lot of energy because you have thousands of computers working on the same problem. This is what makes PoS mechanisms more appealing.

Now, what exactly is Cryptocurrency?

Cryptocurrency is digital or virtual currency that uses blockchain technology. Each cryptocurrency will use a slightly different form of blockchain. A defining feature of cryptocurrencies is that they are not issued by any central authority like fiat currencies – which means they are decentralized! Cryptocurrencies are sent directly from person to person over the internet without going through a financial institution.

The Basics

We need to spend a moment discussing how to buy, sell, or trade crypto.

Where to Buy, Sell, and Trade

Cryptocurrency exchanges are websites where you can buy, sell, or trade cryptocurrencies. You’ll need to create an account on the exchange and then deposit funds into that account to buy crypto. Some popular exchanges are  Coinbase, Binance, and Kraken.

How to Store

You can definitely keep your coins on your cryptocurrency exchange. For example, if you bought some Bitcoin through Coinbase, you don’t need to do anything else. 

But seeing as the main focus of crypto is to be one hundred percent decentralized, many users want to secure their own coins. This is where you can place them in a software wallet like MetaMask or MathWallet, which has its own password called a “seed phrase.” This seed phrase is similar to a PIN for a debit card. 

How to Secure

If you have invested a lot of money into crypto, you don’t want to leave it up to hackers to steal it. Unlike a bank account, there’s no one to get you your money back if it’s stolen. That’s where “cold” wallets come in. Trezor or Ledger are the most popular, and you can think of these as a USB drive that stores your coins offline.

How to Keep Track

Once you’ve started to invest in cryptocurrency, it’s important to know how much money you’ve invested, which is easily done through a cryptocurrency portfolio tracker. 

Don’t forget that regulations have now been passed to help you easily report any income you’ve made from crypto gains. You’ll probably want to check out crypto tax reporting software as well. 

Types of Crypto

Today, there are nearly a thousand different types of cryptocurrencies out there. Let’s break them down.

Bitcoin

Bitcoin is the original cryptocurrency, and it was created in 2009 by Satoshi Nakamoto. Bitcoin is a decentralized cryptocurrency that uses PoW consensus mechanism to verify transactions.

Altcoin

Altcoin is short for “alternative coins,” AKA any coin that is not bitcoin. You can sell and buy altcoins similarly to Bitcoin. Here are the most common Altcoins:

  • Ether: Ether is used on the Ethereum network and is very popular as it’s the crypto of choice for buying and selling NFTs. It was a PoW, but will fully transition to PoS by the end of 2022.
  • Dogecoin: Dogecoin was created as a joke, but it quickly grew in popularity. Dogecoin is a decentralized, peer-to-peer digital currency that allows you to send money online.
  • Solana:  Solana is another proof-of-stake consensus coin and promises to be more scalable than other blockchains.

Stablecoin

A stablecoin is a cryptocurrency that is pegged to an asset with a stable value, such as gold or the U.S. dollar. The purpose of a stablecoin is to avoid the volatility that is common among other cryptocurrencies.

The most popular stablecoins are:

  • Tether (USDT): Tether is pegged to the U.S. dollar and it’s one of the most popular.
  • USDC: USDC is another USD-backed stablecoin, and it’s available on many different cryptocurrency exchanges.
  • DAI: DAI is a decentralized stable coin that aims to stay as close to the U.S. dollar as possible.

The Good and the Bad

Hopefully, by now, you understand why money plays a vital role in society, and our large-scale economies could not operate without it. You can understand that the tool we use as a medium for exchange also evolves as technology changes. So the question remains, could cryptocurrency play a parallel role with fiat money or could it be something that replaces it altogether?

The Crypto Advantage

Crypto has many unique advantages that can solve some of the problems we have with fiat currency.

  • Lower inflation risk: In a fiat currency, the government can print out more money. Not Bitcoin. Only 21 million can be mined and that’s it.
  • Money without borders: You can transfer Bitcoin or any other cryptocurrency to anyone in the world without paying any fees, and it will arrive in minutes.
  • Fraud prevention: Another advantage of cryptocurrency is that it can help prevent fraud. With traditional methods of payment, it is easy for someone to commit fraud by using a stolen credit card or bank account.

The Hurdles

What could stop cryptocurrency from being adopted worldwide? Well, quite a few things, as there are tons of concerns that we have seen arise. 

  • Ease of Use: There’s quite a learning curve when it comes to buying and selling crypto, so I don’t see it becoming more mainstream until this process is streamlined and people have an easier way of understanding crypto.
  • Volatility: The value of cryptocurrencies can rise and fall quite quickly, making them a huge concern for investments. Stablecoin may help with this in the future.
  • Government regulation: Government regulation will have a huge hand in dictating the future crypto. We have seen what happened with China when they banned cryptocurrency exchanges. This caused the value of bitcoin to drop by over 50%, but I don’t see the U.S. banning cryptocurrency. Recently, the U.S. has already given some guidance on how to report it, and now there’s crypto taxing software to help you.
  • Company adoption: We will need to see the market begin to accept cryptocurrency as a form of payment.

Crypto Crystal Ball

In the end, only time will tell what the future holds for cryptocurrencies. Maybe we’ll become the crypto century, or maybe not. That’s for you to evaluate.

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6 Boring Financial Moves Worth Making

6 Boring Financial Moves Worth Making

The following is a guest post from Dr. Jeffrey Keimer. Dr. Keimer is a 2011 graduate of Albany College of Pharmacy and Health Sciences and pharmacy manager for a regional drugstore chain in Vermont. He and his wife Alex have been pursuing financial independence since 2016. Check out Jeff’s new book, FIRE Rx: The Pharmacist’s Guide to Financial Independence to learn how to create an actionable plan to reach financial independence.

Today’s the day.

You’ve spent the better part of a decade getting your PharmD, passed your boards, and got the job. But today’s the day it’s supposed to all pay off; for today, you finally get that sweet first paycheck as a pharmacist.

Welcome to the club!

But now what?

Well…whatever you want, right? After all, the world’s your oyster now that you’re making good money. Live it up! And even if you don’t have the money on hand to do what you want right now, you’ve got a big income to support a big credit limit. Charge it!

Unfortunately, a lot of us (myself included) buy into this mindset and fall into a financial quagmire because of it. What starts as something innocuous like “I’ve worked hard for a long time and now I’m going to treat myself” has a funny way of becoming “Wow, I make six figures and live paycheck to paycheck!” And if you don’t believe that’s a thing, tell that to the majority of high-earning Millennials who report living that life.

It doesn’t have to be that way though. There are moves you can make to protect yourself from such first-world problems. But here’s the rub, most pharmacists (and people in general) don’t like making some of these financial moves because they can be boring, tedious, and might be outside your comfort zone. If you can get past that though, these moves could pay off in the long run.

So with that, let’s dive in!

1. Make and Keep a Budget

This one’s probably the most essential thing you can do to keep your finances on track. Knowing how much money’s coming in, how much is going out, and what can be saved is elemental to the financial plan. If you aren’t budgeting, I’d dare say that you’re going to find it very difficult, if not impossible, to meet most of your bigger financial goals.

So why does this one top our list?

In truth, budgeting can be one of the most boring activities that fall under the broad umbrella of things considered “adulting.” It requires you to take an accurate accounting of not just the money you have coming in, but the money that’s going out and where it’s going. Poring over pay stubs, bank statements, and credit card bills to get all this data isn’t just recommended, it’s required. Oh, and you’ll probably need to make a spreadsheet or two.

Sounds like fun, doesn’t it?

And that’s just what goes into making an initial budget. To make budgeting work for you, you need to get in the habit of sitting down with all these numbers regularly (usually once a month, if not more often). Like a diet, success with budgeting is only going to occur when you practice it consistently for the long run. Fortunately, budgeting isn’t that hard to do and there’s even more than one way to do it.

For most of us, the thought of budgeting invokes a picture of sitting down with your finances once a month, going over your income and expenses, and seeing if there’s money left over to put toward goals. This kind of process, known as “zero-based budgeting,” is the most basic form of budgeting you can do and will likely be the first budgeting style you try. It can also be a pretty tedious process as you need to dissect each month’s spending and see how it compares to the goals you set for yourself ahead of time. For instance, say you want to set a budget of $150 a month for clothes, and this month you only spent $135. Great! The extra $15 can be added to the amount you can save this month. Conversely, if you went over budget in that category by $15, hopefully, you underspent in another category. If not, you’ll need to dip into existing savings to cover the shortfall.

Given the fact you need to repeat this process for every spending category, month after month, it’s not hard to see why many people don’t care for it. Still, it must be done. Don’t fret though, there are plenty of tools available to help you out along the way. For starters, you can avoid having to make a budget spreadsheet yourself and get one for free right here at YFP. This template will walk you through the steps required to make your first budget. Beyond that, there are some excellent platforms available to keep you on track. I was a big fan of the app Mint when I was getting started as it automatically drew all the data I needed from my accounts, aggregated it, and presented it to me on a clean interface.

Using that app, I was also able to get a handle on my spending trends over time and better predict my spending in the more variable categories (ie. food, clothes, entertainment, etc.) which allowed me to pursue a more convenient budgeting style. By knowing what I usually spent in those variable categories and seeing a consistency over time, I could also (in theory) treat the whole lot of them as a single line item. This led me to create a budget for myself which is sometimes referred to as a “reverse budget” in which money for savings is taken out first (in my case every pay period), and then you live off what’s leftover. It’s kind of like living paycheck to paycheck, but without worrying about how you’re going to pay the rent. For me, this style has worked very well as it involves little work beyond the initial setup. I get paid, my spreadsheet tells me how much extra I should have, and I send that money toward goals. The only time I revisit the numbers on the spreadsheet is when they change. That’s it! If you’ve been using a zero-based budget for a while or happen to have a few years of data showing relatively consistent spending, migrating over to a reverse budget might help you keep things going long term.

However you decide to do it, the bottom line here is you need to budget. Full stop. All of the other things we’re going to talk about in this post can be crucial to the financial plan, but they pale in comparison to the importance of budgeting. If you’re not already doing it, get started today!

2. Protect Thyself!

Ok, I tried to give this one a more exciting title, but this section encompasses the most boring things you can do as part of the financial plan. In this bucket, you’ll find riveting topics such as insurance policies, designating a power of attorney, and even writing a will! Hoo boy!

Pumped? Yeah, I didn’t think so.

But the truth is, taking steps to secure yourself against life’s uncertainties is never a fun exercise, and sometimes the process can even be a little uncomfortable. It’s worth it though, and you really should consider taking action here. After all, stuff happens in life and even the best-laid plans can get torn to shreds by the unforeseen.

When it comes to insurance, most of us are pretty familiar with health, home, and auto policies, and these are all essential and may even be legally required to have in some cases. But what about insurance that protects your income and those who depend on that income? Life and disability insurance policies typically aren’t given the kind of attention and essential label that the above do, but for many of us, they probably should. After all, your income is the lifeblood of you and your family’s financial plan, and securing it is important! It’s tough to think about dying prematurely or losing the ability to work, but preparing for the worst is always a good move.

Life insurance can be a pretty complicated topic, especially when you consider the fact that many policies out there combine insurance with investing. Rather than getting into the weeds on the pros and cons of different types of policies (for that, check out my other post Life Insurance for Pharmacists: The Ultimate Guide), I’ll just say that the most important thing to consider here is getting a death benefit sized to your situation for the lowest amount of premium from a reputable insurance company. And given the importance of getting that sizing right, it’s probably not a bad idea to work with an advisor or agent when getting a policy.

Be forewarned though, policies that have investing components such as whole life or universal life tend to have MAJOR financial incentives for the agents selling them. As such, those agents (who may also call themselves financial advisors) may not be acting in your best interest when pitching them to you. For most new pharmacists, these types of policies are rarely the best option. In general, term life policies that meet your basic need for insurance are what to look for.

If life insurance is a good fit for your financial plan, then you’ll want to consider getting disability insurance as well. Thankfully, disability insurance is a little more straightforward. At a basic level, you need to choose how long you want to receive benefits, the amount you’d receive, and how long it will take before benefits kick in (also known as the elimination period). In addition, you may want to get a policy that’s specified as “own occupation” disability insurance because receipt of disability insurance otherwise is predicated on the idea that you can’t work, period. Unless you have an own-occupation policy, disability payments can be denied if you could reasonably work in a different capacity, even at a much lower rate of pay. For more on disability insurance, be sure to check out this must-read on the YFP blog, Disability Insurance for Pharmacists: The Ultimate Guide.

Finally, when it comes to protecting you and your family in the event of the unthinkable, having other plans in place such as a durable power of attorney, will, and/or estate plan can go a long way. These things can make your wishes known in the event you’re unable to say them yourself. For more on this, be sure to listen to YFP Podcast Episode 222: Why Estate Planning is Such an Important Part of the Financial Plan.

3. Tackle Debt

Once you’ve started to budget, getting out of debt tends to be one of the first financial goals people set for themselves. After all, being debt-free is pretty awesome.

So why does this one make the list? Because while being debt-free can be exciting, getting there can be a pretty boring process. On top of that, if you have student loans you are trying to pay off, an optimal strategy may involve a suboptimal amount of paperwork to boot.

For most of us, eliminating a substantial amount of debt boils down to following a budget and applying the savings from that budget consistently. Put in the work, grind it out, and the debt will eventually be gone. That said, there are ways to optimize the process.

There are two main strategies for straight debt pay off: the avalanche and the snowball. The avalanche strategy involves you paying off debts in order of smallest to largest. With the snowball method, you’ll pay off the debt that has the highest interest rate first, eventually working your way down to the lowest interest rate. There probably won’t be much of a difference between the two in terms of how quickly you’ll pay off the debt, but these strategies do provide a roadmap to get you from start to finish.

But while the path to get rid of most types of debt can be straightforward, the best path to get rid of your student loans can be a little less clear. Depending on the type of loans you have, your employment status, and your level of discretionary income, you may find that the optimal strategy for addressing your loans is a lot different than simply grinding them away. For more on that, be sure to check out Tim Church’s comprehensive book, The Pharmacist’s Guide to Conquering Student Loans as well as the excellent post The Ultimate Guide to Pay Back Pharmacy School Loans.

If, after carefully considering all of the payoff strategies available to you, you decide that simply paying them off is the best course of action, visit the refinancing hub at YFP so you don’t pay a dime of interest more than you need to. You might be able to get some extra cash too!

4. Avoid More Debt

Once you get out of debt, it’s only natural to feel that your financial picture has relaxed a bit. After all, these are bills you’ve likely eliminated from your life forever. But now that they’re gone, it’s incredibly important that you don’t replace them with new ones. Believe me, keeping up with the boring grind that got you out of debt after paying everything off is easier said than done.

There’s a theory in economics known as the “wealth effect” which shares that as the value of people’s assets rise, they tend to spend more. I would argue that the same can be said when you get rid of debt. Your net worth rises and the cash flow available from your biggest asset (your income) increases. Taken together, the pressure to upgrade your lifestyle goes up as well. After all, you can afford nicer things now, denying yourself these pleasures would be on you alone, not the fact you have a loan payment due.

This is something I started to struggle with once the only debt I had in my life became my mortgage. With all the other big monthly bills gone, the amount of extra cash available every paycheck seemed to give me license to spend a lot more than I had previously. While my experience in personal finance taught me to avoid credit card debt like the plague (and I do), it’s a lot harder to keep thoughts of buying a nicer car or considering a home upgrade at bay; both of which have a nasty habit of getting you back into debt. Add temptingly low-interest rates into the mix and, well, you get the picture.

5. Force Yourself to Save More

Going hand in hand with keeping yourself out of debt is then using that money to save more. This can be tough because unlike getting out of debt, saving money doesn’t have a well-defined endpoint and the goal you set for yourself can shift over time. In addition, unless you’re in a group that likes to share financial successes, getting external validation (and motivation) about your savings habits is unlikely. After all, people see nice stuff, not nice balance sheets.

Thankfully, there’s a concept I’m going to borrow from the Financial Independence, Retire Early (FIRE) movement that we can use here to make savings a little less boring and give you a better-defined goal to work with. It’s called the “four percent rule.” In a nutshell, the four percent rule sets the amount you need to save to be considered financially independent as 25 times your annual expenses.

How does that make saving less boring? Easy. With a defined goal in mind, you can give your savings journey milestones to get excited about! For example, getting to a point where you have $100,000 in your investment accounts can sound pretty good on its own, but it can be much more meaningful in the context of where you are in your journey to financial independence; arguably the end goal for everyone taking charge of their financial futures.

6. Be Honest With Yourself as an Investor

Finally, I wanted to touch on this one not just because it fits the theme of boring things to do, but because I think as pharmacists (like other highly compensated professionals), we can easily fall into the trap of thinking we’re smarter than we are when it comes to investing. I’ve been guilty of this. But despite what you may hear in the news about small “investors” making scads of money on the latest meme stocks or cryptos, the truth is that day trading the market is a great way to lose money over the long run, or worse. For most investors, following a boring, buy-and-hold style of investing using a diversified mix of quality assets that aligns with your risk tolerance is typically a much better play.

Conclusion

The bottom line is that the path to long-term wealth and financial prosperity isn’t always sexy. Along the way, there are things you’ll need to do that are, frankly, quite boring. But if you can get past that and put in the work to make and keep a financial plan that allows you to build wealth in a secure, consistent way, you’ll be well on your way to reaching financial independence.

Need help figuring out which financial move to make next?

If you’re interested in having support on your financial journey, I encourage you to book a free discovery call with the team at YFP Planning. YFP Planning is a fee-only, comprehensive, high-touch financial planning firm that’s dedicated to serving pharmacy professionals like you.

You can book a free call to see if YFP Planning is the right fit for you.

 

 

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How Much You Need to Hang Up Your Coat: All About the Four Percent Rule

How Much You Need to Hang Up Your Coat: All About the Four Percent Rule

The following is a guest post from Dr. Jeffrey Keimer. Dr. Keimer is a 2011 graduate of Albany College of Pharmacy and Health Sciences and pharmacy manager for a regional drugstore chain in Vermont. He and his wife Alex have been pursuing financial independence since 2016. Check out Jeff’s book, FIRE Rx: The Pharmacist’s Guide to Financial Independence to learn how to create an actionable plan so you can retire early as a pharmacist.

 

By now, you’ve probably heard that it’s possible to retire not just early, but incredibly early; like in your 30s or 40s instead of in your 60s or 70s. As evidenced by the financial independence, retire early (FIRE) movement, many people are doing just that. Now while that sounds awesome, the big question (as with most things) is always “how do you do it?”

In an earlier post, “The FIRE Prescription: How to Retire Early as a Pharmacist,” I gave a really broad overview of some of the basic tenets of the FIRE movement: the four percent rule, reducing expenses, investing, and drawdown of those investments. Having a good understanding of those concepts is crucial if you ever want to reach financial independence, but I didn’t go into much detail on any one of them in particular. Time to remedy that. So for this post, I wanted to take a deeper dive into that first concept: the four percent rule.

Why that one? Because it was the first one I listed. Duh.

On a more serious note though, the four percent rule (and by extension the concept of a safe withdrawal rate) should be the first thing to understand when drawing up a game plan for FIRE as a pharmacist. This is because it can help define the ever-elusive concept of “enough.” After all, what kind of journey do you set out on without a destination?

What is the Four Percent Rule?

When people in the FIRE community talk about the “four percent rule” what they’re referring to is a concept known as a safe withdrawal rate for early retirement. A safe withdrawal rate (SWR) can be defined as the annual amount (as a percentage) you can expect to withdraw from an investment portfolio without having to worry about the portfolio running out of money in the future; even as you adjust the initial amount for inflation year over year. Basically, you can look at your portfolio balance and figure out how much yearly income you can draw from it without worrying about the portfolio going to zero by assuming a safe withdrawal rate.

The “four percent” part comes in when we’re making assumptions about what kind of safe withdrawal rate our portfolio might support and it comes from a very important study published by financial planner, William Bengen, back in the early 1990s. In a nutshell, Bengen found that a diversified portfolio of US stocks and bonds could support at least a 4% safe withdrawal rate for retirees looking to tap their investments for retirement income over 30 years (more on that a little later).

Why it Matters

For those looking to join the FIRE movement, the four percent rule is probably the first major concept you get exposed to. Why? Because the whole idea of early retirement and the four percent rule do something incredibly important: it tells you where the endzone is. If you know how much you spend per year, you can use the four percent rule to define how much you need to save so that you can cover those expenses. Once you reach that number, sometimes called your FI number, you can probably declare yourself financially independent and consider early retirement.

So how do you calculate a FI number? Well, to borrow a phrase, it’s shockingly simple. Just take the inverse of 4% which is 25 and multiply your annual expenses by it.

For example, say your annual expenses (taxes included!) are $80,000. What’s your FI number?

$80,000 x 25 = $2,000,000

By using the four percent rule to help determine the amount you need to reach FI, not only do you set yourself apart from most Americans who frankly have no clue how much they need to retire, you give yourself a real number to work toward. With that in hand, you can measure your progress toward what many consider to be the ultimate goal in personal finance.

Given that, it’s no wonder that the four percent rule has become a chief cornerstone of the FIRE movement. What’s more, not only does it give you a concrete goal to work towards, it also puts that goal more firmly under your control.

Think about this for a second.

Many of us have been exposed to the advice that you need to save some multiple of your income by retirement to retire comfortably. But how much control do you really have over your income? As pharmacists, the answer to that question has to be “less than we’d like.” Many of us are all too aware of how much the market forces of supply and demand affect what we can expect in compensation.

That said, the four percent rule does something pretty spectacular. Instead of basing your retirement number on your income, it bases it off your expenses; something much, much more under your control. Cut out $500 a month from your budget? That translates to $150,000 less you’ll need to retire. The math is simple but incredibly powerful. What the four percent rule does, and I really can’t emphasize this enough, is that it gives you the knowledge to take control of your financial destiny!

Where Did it Come From?

Here’s where we’re going to get a little more technical and go over some of the research the four percent rule was born from, so buckle up. The four percent rule, as it’s come to be known, originally came out of the study “Determining Withdrawal Rates Using Historical Data” published in the Journal of Financial Planning by William Bengen in 1994. Bengen’s goal with the study was to shed some light on what kind of income a retiree could safely live on given a standard portfolio of stocks and bonds where the income produced came from the portfolio’s total return. And what did he find? By using historical return data on US stocks and US treasury notes, Bengen was able to conclude that the worst possible scenario for a retiree using a 50/50 stock and bond portfolio was that their money ran out after 33 years following a consistent 4% initial withdrawal strategy, indexing the withdrawal each year to inflation; a level Bengen referred to as SAFEMAX, and the rest of the world came to know as the four percent rule.

So how did that withdrawal strategy work? Like this. Say you have a $1,000,000 portfolio at the start of retirement. The first year, you’d draw $40,000 from it (4% of the initial balance). Next year, assuming a 3% rate of inflation, you’d increase the previous amount by 3% ($40,000 x 1.03 = $41,200) and that would be the amount withdrawn. In the years that come, just rinse and repeat. Slightly more complicated math than the FI number math, but still not too bad.

Bengen’s study was a watershed moment in the financial planning world. Before his study on withdrawal rates, retirement income planning either followed something akin to a reverse mortgage on the portfolio, reliance on pension income, or the old-school rentier model of only factoring in the income generated by the portfolio (i.e. not touching the principal). With Bengen, now the concept of a safe withdrawal rate could be incorporated into a retiree’s financial plan. His was just the first of many on the subject though.

Another piece of research that gets a lot of traction in the FIRE movement is one conducted by three finance professors from Trinity University dubbed, creatively, “The Trinity Study.” The Trinity Study more or less supported Bengen’s initial findings in that a 4% withdrawal rate tended to coincide with minimal risk of portfolio failure (i.e. going to zero) over a 30 year withdrawal period. The only real difference with the Trinity Study vs. Bengen’s was that the Trinity researchers presented their findings primarily in terms of probability of failure rather than just focusing on the lower bound results as Bengen did.

This was important to the whole safe withdrawal rate discussion because when making forecasts (as you do in the planning process) viewing things through the lens of probability is essential. In this case, the authors of the Trinity study placed the odds of success with a 4% withdrawal rate after 30 years at 95% using a 50/50 mix of stocks and bonds; a conclusion very much in line with Bengen’s and the notion of a 4% safe withdrawal rate.

So What’s the Catch?

So…despite the presence of studies and journals, finance isn’t what you’d call a hard science. Many would dispute the idea that it’s even a science at all. So here’s the tl;dr on how we should view the four percent rule: like the pirate’s code, it’s more of a guideline, not a rule.

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Why is that?

First, let’s talk a bit about the works that gave us the four percent rule. Just like any of the drug studies you get to look at in your professional life, there are limitations; the most obvious of which is the sample size. For the vast majority of studies that look at historical withdrawal rates, sample sizes are quite small. Take, for instance, Bengen’s study where he looked at the experience of retirees from 1926-1976. Now that sounds like a big time period, but it’s really not. Each year studied assumed a January 1st retirement, so that gives us only 50 data sets. Try bringing a blood pressure med to market with a 50 subject phase III trial. Not gonna happen. To add insult to injury, many of the data sets he used included extrapolated (i.e. made up) data to get to their 50-year endpoints.

Now while the Trinity Study suffered from the same problem as well, some subsequent research has tried to increase the sample size to what you’d expect from a large-scale drug trial. For instance, in a 2017 paper titled “Safe Withdrawal Rates: A Guide for Early Retirees” published for the Social Science Research Network, Dr. Karsten Jeske (who runs the incredible blog Early Retirement Now) was able to expand the data set to 6.5 million retiree scenarios going back to 1871 and retirement periods of up to 60 years! To date, I’m pretty sure that his study is the most comprehensive and one that specifically targets a safe withdrawal rate for early retirement. Surely with that in hand, we can settle on some withdrawal rate as law right?

Nope!

Even such an incredible sample size is still too small. This is because Karsten’s study, like much of the popular research surrounding the four percent rule, is somewhat myopic in scope regarding asset allocation. Very few studies look at the impact of including international stocks (a very common diversification recommendation) in the portfolio, let alone alternatives such as real estate or precious metals.

Secondly, the studies in question didn’t consider investment fees and expenses (like taxes) whatsoever when drawing their conclusions. Kind of like the scenarios you find on a Physics 101 exam where you get to ignore friction, the scenarios described by the aforementioned studies may lack real-world applicability.

The third problem, and in my opinion the biggest one, is that, unlike a drug where we can reliably predict an average response given enough past data, markets don’t work that way. The only thing predictable about markets is that they’re unpredictable. The next 140 years may look like the last 140 years, or completely different. Who knows? Past data can certainly give you an idea of how they may behave, but they tell you nothing about how they will behave.

Perhaps a better approach here as suggested by Dr. Wade Pfau, a professor at the American College of Financial Services, would be to take the past data and use Monte Carlo simulations (remember those from stats?) to present the idea of an SWR in a more probabilistic fashion. I find this approach to be more useful as it can help you picture the relative odds of success based on how a portfolio tends to behave.

Should We Still Use the Four Percent Rule?

Absolutely, but not in the absolute sense. As I said earlier, it needs to be viewed more as a guideline instead of a rule. What I like about it in this way is that you don’t need to be precise with your math. If you can ballpark your yearly expenses using the four percent rule you can: set a savings goal for yourself, track your progress as you go, and, if you reach it, you can probably declare yourself financially independent.

Once there, should you quit your job, lock yourself into an automated withdrawal scheme, and move to the beach?

I wouldn’t.

Can you take some serious liberties with your career at that point?

Oh yes!

Despite its shortcomings, the four percent rule is all about giving you that goalpost where you can take those liberties. And the best part is that you don’t even need to get to that magical number to enjoy the perks! Just knowing where you are on the path can be incredibly powerful and open the door to new options in life.

For instance, when our son was born and my wife Alex wanted to stay home to raise him, we knew that we could do that from an income standpoint. But what about our goal of FI, how would the decision affect that? Thanks to the four percent rule, we could safely say that it wouldn’t matter that much. We knew where we were relative to our goal and we could go down to one income without really setting us back.

Or you could use it the way Cory and Cassie Jenks from Episode 134 of the YFP podcast are, in the pursuit of Coast FI. The four percent rule tells them how much they eventually need to be financially independent, but they’re not in a hurry to get there. Instead, they can take a look at their current savings and, using an assumed rate of return, determine the point at which they no longer need to contribute to their retirement savings. Once there, the money that would’ve gone to savings can go elsewhere…or not be needed at all! They can scale back work and not worry about sinking their eventual retirement.

But what if early retirement or stepping back from work isn’t your thing? No worries, the four percent rule has something for you too. Knowledge is power, and that power can present itself in many ways. One of which is knowing whether you’re in a position of financial strength or not when considering a job change, entrepreneurship, or some other calculated risk with your career. If you’ve done the math and you’re nowhere near FI, you may want to take a more defensive posture. But if you’re well on your way to FI or close to it, that calculus can change dramatically. It may even give you the license to pursue work that can better advance the profession even if it doesn’t pay much (yet!).

Conclusion

The four percent rule, despite its flaws, is a tremendously important tool in the FI toolbox. It allows you to create a concrete financial goal to strive for and one that you can track your progress towards. Once you have that, you can start down the path to FI.

On the path to FI, the four percent rule is just one of many concepts that you’ll want to learn to be successful. The four percent rule just tells you the destination, not how to actually get there; or perhaps equally important, what to do when you arrive. If you’d like to learn more about those things, I invite you to check out my new book FIRE Rx: The Pharmacist’s Guide to Financial Independence.

 

 

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These Tax Benefits Get Unlocked When You Have or Adopt a Child

These Tax Benefits Get Unlocked When You Have or Adopt a Child

The post is for educational purposes and does not constitute financial advice.

Everyone talks about how much it costs to have or raise a child, and for good reason! Having or adopting a child is not an inexpensive thing to do. You may be surprised at how much you spend after factoring in the accumulated costs of necessities like healthcare, food, housing, and clothing on top of activities, sports, and the toys that they have to have. According to a 2015 report from the U.S. Department of Agriculture, middle-income married couples could spend $233,610 to raise a child until they are 18. After adding in inflation, the cost rises to $284,570!

That’s obviously no small chunk of change.

The good news, aside from the immense amount of joy they can bring into your life? Having or adopting a child can unlock several key moves you can make that can help to lower your tax bill and allow you save for future tuition expenses.

1. Child Tax Credit

Taxpayers who claim at least one child as a dependent on their tax return may be eligible to receive the Child Tax Credit (CTC). The Child Tax Credit is different from a tax deduction. A tax deduction reduces your taxable income, but a credit actually lowers your tax liability or the amount that you owe the IRS. For example, if you have a $5,000 tax bill and are eligible for the Child Tax Credit, you’d owe $3,000 instead. Another amazing feature of this credit is that you’re eligible to receive a refund for up to $1,400, so if the credit brings your tax liability below zero, you could receive a refund up to that amount. Woohoo!

For 2020, the Child Tax Credit is capped at $2,000 for each qualifying child and begins to phase out for those earning $200,000 filing single and $400,000 married filing jointly. To qualify for this credit, you must have earned at least $2,500 in the tax year.

Check out this IRS tool to see if you have a child that would qualify for you for this credit.

2. Child Care Credit

Paying for childcare is a huge expense that parents and caregivers have to face. According to the Center for American Progress, the average cost of center-based child care for an infant in the United States is $1,230 per month. With a family care center or in-home daycare, average costs are around $800 per month. If you have multiple children, you’re obviously looking at a larger bill.

Fortunately, there is the Child and Dependent Care Expenses Credit to hopefully provide some relief to families that are paying for out-of-pocket child care expenses come tax time. The Child and Dependent Care Expenses Credit is designed as a non-refundable tax credit that can cover 20% to 35% of your expenses. Qualified expenses include babysitters, preschool or nursery school, day camp or summer camp, daycare costs, and before and after school care. There are no income restrictions for claiming this credit, however it is capped at $3,000 for one child and $6,000 for two or more dependents that live with you for more than half of the year.

The caveat is that you can only claim this credit if you are working or are looking for work during the time of care, so babysitter expenses for date nights out (or in, thanks COVID!) don’t count. Additionally, you can’t claim payments to your spouse, the parent of the dependent child, a dependent listed on your tax return or your child who is 18 years or younger whether they are listed as a dependent on your return or not. Additionally, you can’t combine this credit with expenses that were paid with pre-tax money from a dependent care flexible spending account. To use the Child and Dependent Care Expenses Credit, Form 2441 must be filled out when filing your taxes. In order to claim payments made to a care provider, you must provide their name, address and Taxpayer Identification Number or a Tax ID number for a preschool or daycare.

3. Adoption Tax Credit

Adopting a child today can cost up to $50,000. The cost is dependent on the country you are adopting the child from, the type of agency or adoption professional you work with, and medical, travel, or other adoption expenses you may incur.

The Adoption Tax Credit is in place to help relieve some of the expenses you may have during the adoption process. This tax credit is non-refundable meaning that it can help lower your tax liability, however you won’t receive a refund because of it. The credit is also only available for the tax liability for that year, although if you have a remaining balance on the credit you’re able to carry that excess forward for up to five years. For 2020, the maximum credit adoptive parents are able to claim is $14,300 per eligible child (child has to be under the age of 18 or mentally or physically incapable of caring for himself or herself). Additionally, there is an income limit and phase-outs on the credit. If your MAGI is below $214,520 then you’re able to claim the full credit. If your income falls between $214,520 to $254,520 you can receive partial credit. However, if your income is above $254,520 then you’re unable to claim the credit.

According to the IRS, the Adoption Tax Credit can be used for the following adoption-related expenses: necessary adoption fees, court costs and attorney fees, travel expenses including meals and lodging, and other expenses that are directly related to the legal adoption of a child. These expenses can count toward the credit even before a child has been identified for the adoption. You can still use this credit for qualified adoption related expenses even if the adoption falls through and never finalizes.

Additionally, some employers offer employer-provided adoption benefits to pay for qualified adoption expenses. These benefits can be excluded from your taxable income for up to $14,300 in 2020, however, you cannot double-dip by using the same expenses in the exclusion as you’re claiming in the credit.

The timing of using the Adoption Tax Credit can vary depending on when you pay the expenses, if and when the adoption was finalized, and whether it’s a domestic or foreign adoption. It’s best to consult with a tax professional to ensure that you’re claiming the credit correctly.

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4. Dependent Care Flexible Spending Account

You may have heard of a Flexible Spending Account that allows you to save pre-tax dollars from your pay into an account that can be used for qualified medical expenses, but did you know that a similar account is available to pay for child care costs?

A Dependent Care Flexible Spending Account (DCFSA) is an account offered through your employer where you can use the funds to pay for qualified child care costs. You authorize your employer to hold a certain amount of money on a pre-tax basis each pay period that is then deposited into this account. Unlike an HSA, you cannot spend the money directly from the account. Instead, you have to pay out-of-pocket for the expense, submit the expense and then receive reimbursement.

Qualified expenses that can be covered with a DCFSA include before and after school care, babysitting or nanny expenses, daycare/nursery/preschool costs or summer day camp. It’s important to note that the child or children receiving care must be under 13 years old. You can also use this account to pay for care for your spouse or another adult that is claimed as a dependent on your taxes, who cannot take care of themself and that lives in your home.

Expenses that do not qualify include paying for education or tuition fees, overnight camps, expenses for children over 13, field trips, or transportation to or from the dependent care provider.

You can contribute up to $5,000 per year if you’re married and filing jointly. If filing single, you can contribute $2,500 per year. This can be a powerful way to save money for expenses that you know you’ll need to pay for. Because the money comes out of your paycheck pre-tax, you’re lowering your MAGI and ultimately your tax bill.

However, this money doesn’t rollover. Like the healthcare FSA, you have to use it or lose it, so only contribute an amount that you know you’ll use throughout the year.

5. 529 Plan

Depending on your financial goals and plan, saving for your child’s or children’s education may be a top priority for you. One of the most popular ways to do so is with a 529 plan.

There are two types of 529 plans: 529 college savings plans and 529 prepaid plans. 529 college savings plans are the most widely used. Money is contributed after tax, grows tax-free, and is distributed tax-free as long as it’s used for qualified expenses. 529 plans are generally run by your state, however, you don’t have to use that plan and can choose another plan instead.

529 prepaid plans allow you to prepay for a partial or total amount of tuition, but this type of plan isn’t available in every state. While 529 prepaid plans are also tax-deferred, it often doesn’t cover as many expenses as the 529 college savings plan does. According to Saving for College, if you opt for the prepaid plan you may have to pay a premium for tuition and you may not have enough money saved for future tuition costs.

You’re able to open a 529 plan at any time and there aren’t any income phaseouts or age limits on contributions or when the funds have to be used. In the past, 529 plans were only available for undergraduate, graduate, medical, and law school, but that changed in 2018. Now 529 plans can also be used for tuition costs for K-12 education (up to $10,000 per year per child) in addition to higher education costs. Qualified expenses for 529 college savings plans include tuition and fees, books, supplies, equipment, room, and board (if the student is enrolled at least half time), and computer or software equipment, among a few others. However, 529 prepaid plans often only cover tuition and room and board.

Another feature of the 529 plan is that you can choose from a few dozen investment options and can mix funds depending on your risk tolerance. Many plans also have age-based options where the money is invested more aggressively when the child is younger and moves to more conservative allocations as the child gets closer to college age. Another perk of the 529 plan is that many states also allow you to take a tax deduction or tax credit for your contributions which could in turn lower your modified adjusted gross income (MAGI) and tax liability.

When it comes time to fill out FAFSA (Free Application for Federal Student Aid), as long as the 529 plan is owned by a dependent student or a dependent student’s parents, it’s reported as a parent’s asset and the distributions are ignored. This allows you to receive more favorable federal financial aid than if it were added to the student’s assets.

But what if your child decides not to attend college? You have the option to change the name of the beneficiary on the account to someone else in the family, like a brother, sister, cousin, or parent. Remember, there is no age limit on using money from a 529 plan so you can pass this money through your family for as long as you want. If you don’t want to give the money to another family member or save it for a future grandchild, you can withdraw it but you’ll have to pay taxes on any growth earnings as well as a 10% penalty.

6. Coverdell Education Savings Account (ESA)

If a tax-advantaged 529 plan doesn’t seem like a good fit for you, there is another option to save for your child’s education. Formerly known as the Education IRA, the Coverdell Education Savings Account (ESA) is a tax-deferred trust or custodial account designed to help families pay for education expenses. Money contributed to a Coverdell ESA grows tax-free and is distributed tax-free as long as the money is used for a qualified expense. The ESA can be used to cover the cost of tuition, fees, books, and sometimes room and board for higher education as well as elementary and secondary education (K-12).

Anyone can create a Coverdell ESA account through a brokerage account, bank, credit union or mutual fund company, however the beneficiary must be younger than 18 years old at the time it’s opened. Depending on your income, you can contribute $2,000 total per year to a beneficiary.

Your contribution limit begins to phase out if your modified adjusted gross income (MAGI) is between $95,000 and $110,000 for single filers or $190,000 to $220,000 for joint filers. If your MAGI is more than $110,00 (filing single) or $220,000 (filing jointly) then you can’t make any contributions. You also can’t make any contributions to the account after the beneficiary is 18.

Unlike a 529 plan, the funds must be dispersed by the time the beneficiary is 30 years old (except for a special needs beneficiary). If the distributions are higher than the education expenses of the account holder then a portion of those earnings would be taxed to the beneficiary. If the funds aren’t used in their entirety there are options to either roll them over to a family member’s Coverdell ESA account, transfer them to a 529 plan or withdraw them. If the funds are withdrawn and not used to pay for a qualified expense, the earnings would be counted as taxable income and an additional 10% would be changed as a penalty.

One of the benefits of choosing a Coverdell ESA comes down to investment options. With this account, you can self-direct your investments and choose from a range of individual, international or domestic stocks, bonds, mutual funds, exchange-traded funds (ETFs) and real estate investments. These options vary depending on where the account is opened. You’re able to adjust your investment portfolio as many times as you’d like.

Conclusion

Between dependent care flexible savings accounts, child care or child tax credits, and options to grow your money while you save for your child’s education, there are a lot of powerful tax moves that should be considered once you have or adopt kids. It’s important to take a step back and analyze your tax strategy so that you can decide which options are going to work best for your financial plan.

If you want to check out more money tips to consider when having or adopting a child, check out the comprehensive checklist below.

Need Help Trying to Determine Which Tax Moves to Consider?

Trying to navigate the possible tax moves for your situation can be overwhelming. If you need help analyzing which moves work best for your family, how you can get the most out of saving for your child’s education or with your overall financial plan, you can book a free call with one of our CERTIFIED FINANCIAL PLANNERSTM.

 

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10 Financial Benefits for Federal Pharmacists You Wish You Had

10 Financial Benefits for Federal Pharmacists You Wish You Had

The post is for educational purposes and does not constitute financial advice. The post may contain affiliate links through which YFP receives compensation.

The federal government is one of the largest employers of pharmacists and offers many unique practice opportunities beyond traditional roles.

Besides the Veterans Health Administration and the Indian Health Service, federal pharmacists also are employed at the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, the Federal Drug Administration, the National Institutes of Health, the Department of Defense through one of the military branches, and the Department of Justice in the Federal Prison Bureau.

Pharmacists tend to find their work extremely satisfying with the hours and flexibility in schedule being among the top reasons which are something I can personally attest to after spending nearly a decade in a government position.

But beyond these factors that can positively contribute to one’s quality of life, there are also some huge financial perks of being a federal pharmacist.

While salaries are usually less than those in community pharmacy positions, the gap isn’t that wide. However, it’s really the employee benefits in combination with one’s salary that make the total compensation package so generous.

1. Federal Employment Retirement System (FERS) Annuity

As a federal pharmacist, your retirement plan has three components: a FERS basic benefit plan, Social Security, and the TSP (Thrift Savings Plan) which I’ll discuss later on. Contributing to your basic benefit plan each pay period is mandatory and the amount you contribute depends on when you were hired with those starting in 2013 and 2014 paying a higher percentage than those with an earlier start date.

The FERS basic benefit plan is essentially a pension paid out as a monthly annuity which is pretty amazing in a world where these are basically extinct. Remember, this is in addition to any social security income you are entitled to.

How much will I get?

Your benefit is calculated using a pretty straightforward formula:

1.1% x High-3 x Years of Service = Basic Annuity Annual Payment

If you retire before age 62 or at age 62 with less than 20 years of service the 1.1% multiple is reduced to 1.0%. Your “High-3” is your highest average salary for three consecutive years which is usually the last three years of your service. This number is based on your average rates of basic pay which does not include bonuses, overtime, allowances, or special pay for recruitment or retention purposes.

Length of service takes into consideration all periods of creditable civilian and military service and only years and months are used in this calculation, so odd days you worked beyond a month are dropped.

Here’s an example of this calculation: Let’s say you are 62 years old, have been a federal employee for 30 years and your “High-3” salary is $150,000. This would result in an annual annuity of $49,500.

If you don’t want to worry about all the rules check out the FERs Retirement calculator below.

FERS Retirement Calculator

 

When can I retire?

To be eligible to receive the basic retirement annuity you have to meet two conditions. First, there is a minimum number of service years. If you retire at 62, that number is 5, 20 years if you retire at 60, and 30 years if you want to retire at your minimum retirement age (MRA) and that happens to be prior to age 60.

You can also retire at your MRA with 10 years of service, but your benefit is reduced by 5% per year every year you are under 62 unless you have 20 years of service and your benefit starts when you reach age 60 or later.

The second condition to retire is to reach your MRA and this depends on when you were born. If you are a millennial or Gen Z, then your MRA is 57. Sorry FIRE folks!

Check out this table to find out what your FERS minimum retirement age (MRA) is:

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2. Access to the Thrift Savings Plan

The Thrift Savings Plan (TSP) is essentially the 401(k) equivalent for federal employees. It’s subject to the same contribution limits as other employer-sponsored plans at $19,500 with the option for $6,500 catch-up contributions if you’re 50 or older for 2020.

However, unlike many 401(k) plans there are some unique features and benefits.

First, regardless of how much you contribute, your employer will contribute an automatic 1% of your basic pay. In addition, your agency will match the first 3% you contribute dollar-for-dollar and 50 cents on the dollar for the next 2%. Essentially, you get a match up to 5%.

This is something to pay close attention to especially if you are a new employee as you are automatically enrolled in contributing 3% of your income. Therefore, unless you adjust this promptly when you start, you could be missing out on the additional matching contributions.

There is a 3 year vesting period but this does not include the 1% automatic contributions.

Similar to other employer-sponsored plans you have the option to make traditional contributions or after-tax contributions via the Roth TSP.

When it comes to fund selection, you have two basic choices: Lifecycle or target-date funds and individual funds. The lifecycle funds (L Funds) are a combination of the individual funds and every three months, the target allocations of all the L Funds except L Income are automatically adjusted, gradually shifting them from higher risk and reward to lower risk and reward as they get closer to their target dates.

There are five individual funds that range from government-backed securities to index funds with the objective to match the performance of the major stock and bond indices such as the S&P 500.

While one of the criticisms of the TSP is the lack of fund options especially for savvy investors, others tout the simplicity in the options and find it less challenging to navigate and make decisions.

But beyond the options that exist, the number one feature that sets the TSP apart from other employer-sponsored plans is fees!

The average plan fees for those with 401(k)s range from 0.37% to 1.42%. Compare that to the expense for the C fund in the TSP at 0.042%!

Here’s why that’s a big deal. If you were to invest $500/month over 40 years into two different funds with a similar performance of 7% rate of return, one with an expense of 1% and one with fees similar to the C fund, that fund with an expense of 1% will cost you about $700,000 over that period, significantly lowering your overall rate of return.

That’s the power of fees.

You can see the current expenses of the individual funds within the TSP. One of the major reasons why the fees are so low is that many employees leave money on the table when they separate from federal service prior to becoming vested and that helps offset the administrative costs.

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3. Life Insurance

Working for the federal government means that you’re eligible for the Federal Employees’ Group Life Insurance (FEGLI) program. FEGLI was started in 1954 and is the largest group life insurance program in the world covering over 4 million federal employees and retirees. This program provides basic term life insurance coverage as well as three additional options that can be added on (Standard, Additional and Family).

To give you an idea of cost, for ~$250,000 policy at age 35 would be around $40/month. You can calculate your potential cost based on coverage here.

One of the huge benefits of this program is that it does not require any medical exam prior to being in force. In fact, you are automatically enrolled when you start.

While getting access to affordable life insurance regardless of pre-existing medical conditions is an amazing benefit, the biggest downside is that it’s not portable. This means that if you are terminated or leave federal service for another position, you no longer have coverage. That’s why it’s important to consider a private term life insurance policy as well.

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4. Long-term Disability Retirement Benefits

Beyond the life insurance benefit, you also have some protection in the event you became disabled while in federal service. This is known as disability retirement.

To be eligible, there are several requirements that have to be met including:

  • Completed 18 months of Federal civilian service which is creditable under the Federal Employees Retirement System (FERS);
  • The disability is expected to last at least one year;
  • Your agency must certify that it’s unable to accommodate your disabling medical condition in your present position and has considered you for a vacant position in the same agency at the same pay grade or level;
  • You, or your guardian, must apply before your separation from service or within one year thereafter;
  • You must apply for social security benefits. Application for disability retirement under FERS requires an application for social security benefits

The amount you’ll receive varies depending on your age and number of years of service. If you meet the requirements for traditional FERS retirement benefit based on age and years of service, then the calculation of benefits is the same.

However, if you are under 62 and not eligible for immediate retirement, the calculation gets a little more complex. For the first 12 months it is 60% of your high-3 minus 100% of your social security benefits you are entitled to and after that the calculation is based on 40% of your high-3.

Benefits are recalculated after 12 months and again at age 62 if the person is under age 62 at the time of disability retirement.

While this does guarantee at least some income beyond social security once you have at least 18 months of service, it’s not going to be similar to your take-home pay as a pharmacist.

Therefore, you should strongly consider an individual long term disability insurance policy as a supplement in order to move your potential replacement income closer to your current pay.

You will notice that when you are applying for policies, you will be asked if you are a federal employee. That’s because most states will not allow you to replace over 60% of your total income and this will essentially be a supplement.

5. HSA Eligibility

There are a variety of health plans that are offered for federal employees including fee-for-service plans (both PPO and non-PPO), health maintenance organizations (HMO), and high deductible health plans (HDHP) which offers a health reimbursement arrangement (HRA) or health savings account (HSA). This large variety of health plans allows federal employees to choose a plan that makes the most sense for themselves and their families.

I explained in a recent blog post Why I’m Not Using My Health Savings Account to Pay for Medical Expenses that choosing to use a PPO instead of the HDHP that was available to me was one of my biggest financial mistakes. This is because I was making high premium payments each month but wasn’t utilizing the majority of coverage that was available and I was missing out on the triple tax benefits that an HSA account boasts.

As mentioned, an HSA is unlocked through a high deductible health plan (HDHP) and can be used as an account to save for medical expenses. An HSA allows you to contribute money on a pre-tax basis to pay for qualified medical expenses, like costs for deductibles, copayments, coinsurance, and other expenses aside from premiums. If you’re using your HSA to pay for a qualified medical cost, you don’t have to pay any taxes on the money that’s withdrawn from the account.

In my opinion, the most powerful aspect of an HSA is that it can be used as a retirement vehicle, like an IRA. What makes an HSA so appealing are those triple tax benefits I mentioned. Triple tax benefits, you guessed it, all have to do with taxes; your HSA contributions lower your adjusted gross income (AGI), the contributions grow tax-free and the distributions are tax-free. If you’re under 65, the distributions are only tax-free if they are being used to pay for a qualified medical expense. If they aren’t, you’ll have to pay a 20% penalty. After age 65, your distributions don’t have to be for qualified medical expenses, but you will have to pay income taxes if they aren’t.

To learn about how I’m leveraging this benefit and how I’m allowing my money to stay in my HSA as long as possible, check out this post.

6. Paid Parental Leave

Paid parental leave varies so much from one employer to the next. Some companies like Netflix offer up to a year off of paid maternity or paternity leave while employees at other companies are “lucky” to get 4 or 6 weeks off, if any.

Due to recent changes, federal pharmacists will be able to receive up to 12 weeks paid parental leave for the birth, adoption or foster of a new child. This benefit is supposed to go into effect October 1, 2020.

7. Raises for additional credentials and board certifications

Federal employees are paid based on their grade and step and will have a GS or General Schedule status. The grade usually pertains to the position and the step is typically determined by initial qualifications at the time employment starts and also the years of service. Therefore, the most common way to get to the next level is often just to keep your job.

However, some federal employers may actually incentivize you to get these as well either in the form of a one-time bonus or even a permanent raise. In the VA they are referred to as Special Achievement Awards.

8. Opportunity to Pursue PSLF

When I graduated from pharmacy school, I made one of the biggest financial mistakes that ended up costing me hundreds of thousands of dollars! That was not pursuing the Public Service Loan Forgiveness (PSLF) program. As a government pharmacist, I was eligible for PSLF but because I wasn’t aware of all of my options and didn’t have a good handle on the program, I ended up paying way more money than I needed to.

Although PSLF has had a rocky past, it is one of the best payoff strategies available for pharmacists. The math doesn’t lie; PSLF is often the most beneficial to the borrower as far as the monthly payment is concerned (it’s the lowest) and the total amount paid over the course of the program (it’s the lowest).

Of course, determining your student loan payoff strategy takes a lot of thought and discussion. To learn more about all of your options, check out this post.

9. Tuition Reimbursement and Repayment Programs

Did you know that working as a federal pharmacist might qualify you for tuition reimbursement or to enroll in a tuition repayment program? These programs essentially provide “free” money typically from your employer or institution in exchange for working for a certain period of time.

Pretty awesome, right?

The programs that tend to provide the most generous reimbursement or repayment are those offered by the federal government through the military, Veterans Health Administration, and the Department of Health.

If you’re a pharmacist who works for or plans to work for one of these organizations, connect with your human resources department to see if you’re eligible. There is generally a set amount of funding for these programs, so even if you aren’t eligible initially, you may be able to reapply in a subsequent year.

Here’s a rundown of federal tuition reimbursement programs that are currently available:

Veterans Health Administration – Education Debt Reduction Program

Eligibility

Pharmacists at facilities that have available funding and critical staffing needs.

Benefit

Up to $120,000 over a 5 year period

Army Pharmacist Health Professions Loan Repayment Program

Eligibility

Pharmacists who commit to a period of service when funding is available

Benefit

Up to $120,000 ($40,000 per year over 3 years)

Navy Health Professions Loan Repayment Program

Eligibility

Must be qualified for, or hold an appointment as a commissioned officer, in one of the health professions and sign a written agreement to serve on active duty for a prescribed time period

Benefit

Offers have many variables

Indian Health Service Loan Repayment Program

Eligibility

Two-year service commitment to practice in health facilities serving American Indian and Alaska Native communities. Opportunities are based on Indian health program facilities with the greatest staffing needs

Benefit

$40,000 but can extend contract annually until student loans are paid off

National Institute of Health (NIH) Loan Repayment Program

Eligibility

Two year commitment to conduct biomedical or behavioral research funded by a nonprofit or government institution

Benefit

Up to $50,000 per year

NHSC Substance Use Disorder Workforce Loan Repayment Program

Eligibility

Three years commitment to provide substance use disorder treatment services at NHSC-approved sites

Benefit

$37,500 for part-time and $75,000 for full-time

10. Generous Leave Structure

One of the benefits that I have really appreciated while working for the federal government is the amount of paid time off. First, as a federal employee, you get all 10 federally recognized holidays off assuming you have a typical Monday-Friday schedule. But if you do have to work on one of those days, you get paid double time!

In addition to holidays, you start off accruing 4 hours of annual leave or vacation in addition to 4 hours of sick leave every pay period. This equates to a total of 7.2 weeks of leave as a brand new employee.

Once you hit 3 years of service, your annual leave increases to 6 hours and then to 8 hours per pay period once you reach 15 years of service.

When you become eligible for retirement, any accrued annual leave you have remaining is paid out to you in a lump sum whereas any remaining sick leave counts toward extending your time of service which can increase your overall FERS annuity benefit.

Conclusion

Working as a pharmacist in the federal government carries a lot of benefits that go way beyond your salary. Between possible student loan forgiveness with PSLF, access to TSP and HSA accounts, life and disability insurance, and raises for additional credentials and board certifications plus so many more, there are a lot of reasons to consider working for the government. If you’re currently unemployed, are a recent graduate or you’re looking to make a career change, I highly suggest checking out USA JOBs and sign up to get alerts as new positions become available.

Need Help With Your Financial Plan?

Trying to navigate your federal benefits can be overwhelming. If you need help analyzing how these benefits affect your overall plan or are looking to solidify your financial game plan, you can book a free call with one of our CERTIFIED FINANCIAL PLANNERSTM.

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Why I’m Not Using My Health Savings Account to Pay for Medical Expenses

Why I’m Not Using My Health Savings Account to Pay for Medical Expenses

The post is for educational purposes and does not constitute financial advice

About a decade ago when I started my full-time pharmacist position after residency I made one of my biggest financial mistakes: Not taking advantage of a health savings account (HSA).

At that time, I received the same insurance recommendation from multiple colleagues, “It’s the best” and “It pays for everything.”

While there was no question that this PPO plan had its perks from low co-pays on medical visits and prescriptions to even having dental benefits, I had failed to understand all of my options.

Like many people, I had become victim to decision paralysis given there were 30+ options, and rather than spend hours trying to compare all of the features it was easier just to choose what everyone else had and call it a day.

And that decision cost me big because of the higher premiums I ended up paying for years of good health and the opportunity cost of not contributing to a health savings account.

High Deductible Health Plan

A health savings account is not a health plan per se but rather a benefit that’s unlocked by opting into a specific kind of plan called a high deductible health plan (HDHP).

In 2020 these plans, as defined by the IRS, are those with deductibles of at least $1,400 for an individual and $2,800 for a family. In addition, the max yearly out-of-pocket expenses cannot exceed $6,900 for individuals and $13,800 for in-network services.

Besides having a high deductible and out-of-pocket maximums, one of the distinct features of a high deductible health plan is that the monthly premiums are usually much less than traditional health plans. For example, when I switched from the traditional PPO plan to an HDHP for self plus one, my monthly premium went down by 38%!

Although the premiums are lower, the annual cost compared to traditional plans will depend on a few things but primarily on how much you use healthcare resources. For example, if you are relatively healthy in a given year, meaning without any accidents, injuries, or acute medical issues, and only go to an annual primary care visit (which is generally covered with an HDHP), then an HDHP will be a bargain compared on a premium to premium basis.

But obviously, you can’t predict the health of you and your family so some years you could end up paying more money out-of-pocket with an HDHP.

My out-of-pocket maximum (for in-network expenses) for my HDHP family plan is $6,850 and this is one of my favorite features. Knowing that 100% of expenses are covered beyond that is actually very comforting in the event that something catastrophic occurred. The old plan that I was on had an out-of-pocket maximum of $11,000.

The other consideration is that many HDHP plans will give you money every year toward your HSA just by being enrolled in the plan. Every year, my plan deposits $1,500 into my HSA for a self + one plan.

While you can incur more out-of-pocket costs with HDHP plans depending on how healthy you are, remember that the premiums are lower and this is the only way to unlock a health savings account.

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What is a Health Savings Account?

An HSA allows you to contribute money on a pre-tax basis to pay for qualified medical expenses. These include costs for deductibles, copayments, coinsurance, and other expenses, but generally not premiums.

Unlike a flexible savings account or FSA, any amount you contribute is yours and you are not forced to spend it every year. The funds will be there until you use them (unless you’ve lost funds because of market changes). In addition, an HSA is portable, so anything you’ve contributed will still be yours even if you change employers.

An HSA is technically a tax-exempt trust or custodial account that is set up with a trustee. The trustee is typically a bank but could also be an insurance company or broker that offers investment options.

Although the insurance provider for the HDHP may suggest or even incentivize you to use a specific bank, you have the option to choose.

Health Savings Account Contributions for 2020

For 2020, you can contribute up to $3,550 for self and up to $7,100 for self + one and family. There’s also a catch-up contribution of an additional $1,000 for those 55 and older. These maximums include any contributions made by your health plan. For example, if you are under 55 and your HDHP contributes $1,500/year and you’re on a family plan, you can personally contribute $5,600 to get up to the max of $7,100.

You have until April 15th, 2021 to make your contributions for the 2020 tax year.

Triple Tax Benefits

So beyond being able to pay for qualified medical expenses, what’s with all the hype around HSAs?

It really comes down to one word. Taxes.

Health savings accounts have triple tax benefits.

Contributions Lower Your Adjusted Gross Income

First, any contributions you make lower your adjusted gross income. These are considered above-the-line deductions or adjustments because they reduce taxable income prior to applying the standard or itemized deductions.

Unlike other deductions which have income phaseouts, there are no income caps to get the full health savings account deduction. That’s why this is such an attractive way for pharmacists and other high-income earners to reduce their tax liability.

Plus, if you are pursuing the Public Service Loan Forgiveness program or forgiveness after 20-25 years, this is another way to lower the payments since they are based on your AGI.

This is reported on line 8 of the 1040 form via schedule 1 and form 8889.

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Contributions grow tax-free

The name health SAVINGS account is sort of a misnomer because you actually have the opportunity to invest the contributions in a variety of funds. And this is a big deal because any earnings you have on the money within your account grows tax-free.

Whether you invest or simply save the funds in an HSA or not really comes down to how you want it to function.

You could use it as an emergency fund for medical expenses you may incur in a given year or plan to pay for medical expenses on a pre-tax basis throughout the year. In those cases, you want the money to be available, and storing it in a regular savings account or another account that is not subject to substantial market risk would be best.

However, what if you were able to pay for all medical expenses out-of-pocket and avoid taking funds from your HSA for several years?

If that’s you, then you can essentially create another retirement account. Because in this case, an HSA is similar to an IRA and it is often referred to as an IRA in disguise.

By forgoing using the funds in your HSA for several years, you can then incur more risk over time and consider more aggressive investment options beyond a simple savings account.

As an example, take a look at all the funds that are offered through OptumBank, the HSA holder that I am currently using. You can see there are many different equity funds, index funds, in addition to fixed-income or bond funds, and money market.

Distributions are tax-free

The final tax advantage of an HSA is that your distributions are tax-free! However, there are some stipulations.

First, if you are under 65, the distributions you make have to be for qualified medical expenses otherwise you have to pay a 20% penalty and will be taxed according to your marginal rate. After age 65, your distributions don’t have to be for qualified medical expenses, but you will have to pay income taxes if they aren’t.

The key is that you still have to tie distributions to medical expenses you incur but here is the most important point:

You do not have to reimburse yourself through distributions in the same year that you incurred the medical expenses.

Because of this feature, you can max out your contributions for several years, invest aggressively, and then once in retirement or at some later point in time start taking distributions to “reimburse” yourself for medical expenses you’ve incurred throughout the years that you have been contributing.

This is the main reason why I’m not using the funds in my HSA to pay for medical expenses TODAY.

The key is keeping good records of receipts for proof of qualified medical expenses that you paid out-of-pocket in the event that you get audited after you’ve taken distributions. I generally scan in receipts to the cloud on an annual basis to help with recordkeeping.

If you’ve been fortunate to have good health for several years and have accumulated more money in your HSA than what you could reimburse yourself for, then you have a couple of options. You could use it for medical expenses during retirement, take distributions and just pay the taxes, or leave it as an inheritance.

Where does an HSA fit within the priority of investing?

When it comes to saving and investing, you’ve probably been told to take advantage of tax-favored accounts especially if you are looking at a long-term strategy. The two most common ways include a 401(k) or equivalent and an IRA. But where does the HSA fit?

Obviously, if you don’t have access to an HDHP, then it’s a moot point. But if you do, then because of all the tax benefits, it can often make sense to fund right after you’ve obtained an employer match if one is available.

Beyond the tax-favored accounts available to you, it will also depend on how you are prioritizing your other financial goals as well. Check out the chart below for additional guidance on prioritizing your investment accounts.

your financial pharmacist, priority of investing

 

Conclusion

The health savings account is one of the best ways to pay for medical expenses as it enables you to do so on a pre-tax basis. Contributions you make lower your AGI and there are no income phaseouts. Any earnings grow tax-free and distributions can also be made tax-free for qualified medical expenses. Despite the name, the contributions made can be aggressively invested giving the potential for greater returns over time. Because these distributions can be applied to reimburse for medical expenses from years in the past, an HSA can essentially function like an IRA.

Need Help Starting or Managing Your HSA?

Figuring out where an HSA fits into your plan can be tough if you have student loans and a lot of other competing financial priorities. If you need help funding an HSA or managing the funds within your account, you can book a free call with YFP Director of Business Development, Justin Woods, PharmD to see if YFP Planning is the right fit for you and your financial goals.

 

 

A Crash Course in 401k Planning (Part 2): An Intro to Stocks, Bonds, and Funds

A Crash Course in 401(k) Planning (Part 2): An Intro to Stocks, Bonds, and Funds

The following is a guest post from Dr. Jeffrey Keimer. Dr. Keimer is a 2011 graduate of Albany College of Pharmacy and Health Sciences and pharmacy manager for a regional drugstore chain in Vermont. He and his wife Alex have been pursuing financial independence since 2016.

You got your diploma, passed your boards, and landed that job. You’ve gotten your first big paycheck. Maybe you bought something ridiculous with it. All in all though, you feel like you’re adulting pretty well at this point. So, one morning you decide to make a cup of coffee and do something truly adult: log in to your retirement plan for the first time.

At first, things go pretty well. You make a username. You make a password that makes you laugh a bit. Once you’re in, a dashboard says you have a little over a grand invested! Sweet! But you’re just a bit curious, what is it invested in? You scroll over to the link titled “Investment Options” and click it. The page loads.

confused britney spears GIF

Expense Ratios!? Large Cap!? Prospectus!? These aren’t real words!

But they are.

Even though being responsible for your own retirement seems like a daunting task (it is), understanding what you are investing your money in doesn’t have to be. In this post, part 2 of our series on 401k planning, we’re going to talk about the investment products you’re most likely to find in your retirement plan: mutual funds, index funds, target date funds and exchange traded funds. But before we can get into that, we need to talk about the types of financial assets (securities) they’re made of: stocks and bonds.

Stocks

Stocks (aka equities) are your opportunity to become a part owner of a business. By purchasing a portion of a business, known as a share, you have equity in that business, which entitles you to some of that business’s profits. Those profits come to you through an increase in the value of the share you purchased, known as capital gains, or through a direct distribution known as a dividend. Taken together, capital gains and dividends give you, the investor, a return on the money you invested in shares of the company.

For the most part, owning stocks is the main way most people grow wealth through investing in financial assets. Over long periods of time, the potential to grow your wealth by investing in the stock market far exceeds your potential to grow it in something like a bank savings account.

However, there is a trade off.

Unlike a savings account, where the balance will never go down, the value of your investment in a stock (your principal) can go down. Sometimes with a drastic decrease and for no good reason! Don’t believe me? Let’s talk about Snapchat.

From Bloomberg, 2/22/2018:

In One Tweet, Kylie Jenner Wiped Out $1.3 Billion of SNAP’s Market Value

That day, if you held shares of Snapchat (ticker symbol SNAP), they would’ve lost 6% of their value in a day from something as small as a tweet from a member of the Kardashian clan. That wasn’t even the worst single day drop for a stock that year! Facebook took the crown for 2018 (and history) with a 12% loss in a day which eroded almost $120 BILLION from their market value. For perspective, that’s almost the entire GDP of Ukraine lost in one day.

But what does all that mean? I thought stocks were supposed to be awesome. Well, over the long term, they can be. But over the short term, they carry substantial risk in the form of ups and downs to share price known as volatility. And, in the case of individual stocks, share prices can actually go to zero if the company goes out of business (cue Enron).

Bonds

Bonds belong to a group of assets known as fixed income. When you buy a bond, you’re not buying ownership but are instead buying debt. Bonds offer you the opportunity to collect interest from someone else, just like Navient gets from you.

In the world of bonds, money is made primarily from the interest you collect, known as yield. For a typical bond investor, this yield is meant to provide a steady source of income and predictable return on investment.

But again, there’s a trade off.

In general, when you take less risk by investing in bonds, there’s generally less opportunity for growth. Over long periods of time, the difference in growth can be monumental.

Bond investing does have its own risks, though, as they also experience volatility.

When interest rates change, bond prices change. This is because when you buy a bond at one interest rate and the interest rate changes the next day, you need to reprice your bond accordingly to make it marketable for sale to other investors. In short, when interest rates rise bond prices go down. And, when rates drop, bond prices go up.

Your bond can also lose value if the people you’re lending money to fail to pay up (they default) or there’s a perceived risk of them doing so. This will drive up the interest rate on the bond and lower the value of the bond you hold. With the exception of US Treasury bonds, this type of risk (credit risk), is said to apply to all bond investments.

Mutual Funds

So with all the risks associated with stocks and bonds, how do you stand a fair shot at making money over the long term? You work in a pharmacy, not a hedge fund. Thankfully, the financial services industry came up with a solution for the layperson a long time ago: the mutual fund.

With a mutual fund, you outsource the job of picking stocks and bonds to people that know what they are doing (or at least, say they know what they’re doing). These funds collect investor money and invest it according to a strategy that they lay out in a statement called a prospectus.

Aside from reducing risk by investing in multiple stocks or bonds (diversification), mutual funds can also make it much easier for you to choose what you want to invest in. Just like how learning drug classes instead of individual drugs made pharmacy school a lot easier, mutual funds make investing easier by breaking the wide world of stocks and bonds into categories called asset classes. For stocks, funds will typically focus on company size (market cap) and investment style (growth vs. value). And, for bonds, credit worthiness and term (length of bond repayment) are the main factors.

So by now we’ve established that mutual funds make investing easier by helping you with diversification and grouping securities into asset classes. So what’s the catch?

Well, there’s a big one: fees.

Since you’re outsourcing the legwork of investing to someone else, they need to get paid right?

But what’s a fair price?

Should you pay them upfront?

Over time?

What about when you cash out?

Well, depending on the fund, you might get hit all 3 ways. And, if you’re not careful, these fees can make a massive difference in your success as an investor. So what do they look like? For that, let’s look at a really bad fund which shall not be named (fake ticker symbol: FTNBN) and it’s snapshot from the site Morningstar.

Compared to most mutual funds out there, the fees on this fund are really high but, for the sake of argument, let’s say you want to invest $10k in this fund. If you were to give these people your money, you’d find yourself $575 poorer in an instant from their sales load. OK…but they are going to make me money in the long run and “beat the market”, right? Wrong!

If you put your money in this fund 20 years ago, not only did its managers fail to beat the market (measured by the S&P 500 index), but you actually lost money over this time period. How? Poor management probably played a role, but you can be sure the ongoing fees they were charging were the main culprit.

You see, that number called the expense ratio is the amount they take out of your investment every year for the privilege of having your money in the fund. If you were in this fund, you were paying a whopping $551/yr for every $10k you had invested with them. The fund managers don’t just get this money when the fund does well; they get it regardless.

You, the investor, just get bigger losses and smaller gains.

Imagine if this fund charged the 3rd type of fee, the redemption fee, where they actually charge you another percentage of whatever you take out. Ridiculous!

To be fair, this fund was one of the most egregious I could find. Many funds today do not charge sales loads or carry heavy expense ratios. But, chances are, they would if it weren’t for a man named Jack Bogle and a crazy idea he had back in the ‘70s.

Index Funds

Remember how I mentioned that fund above failed to beat the S&P 500 index? They’re not alone. It turns out the majority of funds that rely on professionals actively picking stocks don’t beat their benchmark indexes. This is as true today as it was back in the 1970s when Jack Bogle, the founder of Vanguard, decided to open the world’s first S&P 500 index fund.

The premise was simple. If you can’t beat ’em, join ’em.

Instead of relying on “active” stock picking, his fund would simply track the S&P by investing in every company within the index proportional to their size, a process called “passive management.” This did two things:

1. Gave investors a diverse basket of US stocks

2. Cut down on costs since he didn’t have to hire stock pickers

That last one was a game changer. The success of Bogle’s index fund set off an arms race in the fund industry to lower investor costs. So much so that today you can even invest in some of these funds for free. No load, no expense ratio, nothing. Free. Heck yes!

And it’s likely you have some of these funds in your retirement plan!

But wait, there’s more! Not only are they cheap, they make picking investments easier. When investing in index funds, or indexing as it’s called, all you are looking for is an index to track and a cheap fund to do it. Want to own every publicly traded company on the planet? There’s a fund for that. What if you want to target only real estate investment trusts (REITs)? Yeah, you can do that, too! What about bonds? Yes, there are indexes out there with funds you can buy, too. With index funds, it’s easy to make a portfolio that invests in the mix you want.

But, believe it or not, things can get even simpler.

Target Date Funds

Also known as lifecycle funds, target date funds are a lazy investor’s dream. Chances are, you might be invested in one of these already and not even know it. Many retirement plans have an auto enrollment that puts a percentage of your income into a target date fund as the default investment strategy.

Traditionally, as you get closer to retirement you want to shift your portfolio from more risky assets such as stocks into safer assets such as bonds. While this is a pretty straightforward process, many people are uncomfortable with making changes to their nest eggs themselves. So uncomfortable, in fact, that many people hire someone else to do this for them and pay them an ongoing fee. The mutual fund industry took note, and because they also liked money, worked on a solution they could keep in house.

Their bright idea? The target date fund (TDF).

Basically, a mutual fund company markets a number of funds with names looking like this:

As you can see, there’s a date in the name. All you have to do is pick a fund with a date that best matches when you plan to retire, give that fund money, and…go do something else. Maybe brew some beer. You’re done playing money manager.

How?

A TDF is designed to be an all-in-one, set it and forget it, type of product. Over time, the makeup of the fund (its asset allocation) will shift automatically into a mix that’s more appropriate for your expected retirement date using a formula called a “glide path.” To do this, a TDF is typically comprised of other mutual funds and the TDF’s glide path dictates the mix of those funds within the TDF.

But remember, the fund industry likes money. Since TDFs serve as a convenient wrapper for the mix of funds they contain, you may pay a premium for that convenience. So if you’re someone who hates the idea of having to change or rebalance your portfolio, or spending time on it in general and you just want to keep contributing, these can be a great option.

Exchange Traded Funds

Lastly, you may encounter the newest type of fund in your retirement plan, the exchange traded fund (ETF). An ETF is not all that different than a mutual fund. You get a diverse basket of stocks, you can track an index, and you get charged an expense ratio. But, they are very different in how they’re traded. With a mutual fund, if you want to buy or sell shares you put in an order and that order gets completed by the next day. With an ETF, you can buy or sell your shares instantly just like a stock.

Also, with most mutual funds you need to make an initial investment of a couple thousand dollars. With an ETF, you can invest for whatever the price of a single share costs. This can allow a beginning investor to make a portfolio of many funds without needing a lot of money.

There is one extra “fee” to be aware of though. When you trade a security, be it a stock, bond, or ETF, there’s a cost to facilitate that trade known as the bid-ask spread. In essence, there’s a higher price you can buy a security for and lower price you can sell it for. The difference between those two values, the spread, is the cost paid to the exchange that facilitates the trade. The more something is traded, the more liquid it is said to be, and the lower the spread will be. While not especially important for something you intend to hold long term, it adds a cost to buying and selling that you should keep in mind.

What’s Right for Me?

Now that you have a better understanding of what types of investments are lurking in your retirement plan, the question now is “which one(s) to choose?” Well, just like the decisions surrounding your contributions were very personal, these will also be.

And, there’s no one size fits all approach.

When building your portfolio, there are many factors to consider. Some of the main ones:

  • Retirement Plan
    • Do you plan to retire early or at a traditional age?
    • How much do you need to fund your retirement?
  • Risk Tolerance
    • How much risk you’re able to take
    • Usually related to your age and expected time to retirement
  • Risk Capacity
    • How much risk you need to take
    • Related to your current wealth, savings rate, retirement time frame, etc.
  • Investment Strategy
  • Who’s Managing It?

That last point is extremely important because statistically speaking, Americans are horrible at investing on their own.

Why?

Because much of your success as an investor is going to be driven by how you behave in different conditions. If you’ve ever heard the old adage “buy low and sell high” you may be surprised by how many people do the exact opposite. While there are many benefits to the DIY approach in managing your investments, it can sometimes help to have a professional help manage you. Aside from having the knowledge to build a portfolio that meets your needs, a financial planner can help you navigate the ups and downs of your investing career in a way that keeps you on track. If you feel like having that guidance, support and expert knowledge in helping you navigate your investments and portfolio, schedule a free discovery call with YFP Director of Business Development, Justin Woods, PharmD to see if YFP Planning is a good fit for you.

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A Crash Course in 401k Planning (Part 1)

A Crash Course in 401k Planning (Part 1)

The following is a guest post from Dr. Jeffrey Keimer. Dr. Keimer is a 2011 graduate of Albany College of Pharmacy and Health Sciences and pharmacy manager for a regional drugstore chain in Vermont. He and his wife Alex have been pursuing financial independence since 2016.

If you’ve been following Your Financial Pharmacist for a while now, chances are you’ve been coming up with a game plan to deal with your debts and form a solid financial foundation. Is investing part of that financial foundation or plan?

Yes?

No?

Maybe?

While cleaning up your balance sheet or having some cash tucked away for a rainy day is great, that alone isn’t going to get you to financial freedom or prepare you for retirement. For that, your money needs to go out and hustle for you, meaning you need to invest it.

But how do you get started?

To help answer that question, we are going to give you a bit of an investing and 401k planning crash course with a focus on workplace retirement plans. Over the next few posts, it’s our hope that you learn a bit more about what they are, how they work, and how to manage them. With pensions becoming an endangered species (unless you’re a government employee), you can bet that you alone are responsible for your own retirement planning. The more informed you are, the better.

Alphabet Soup: The 401(k), 403(b), and TSP

So if you don’t get a pension, what DO you get as a retirement benefit from work? Well, depending on who you work for, you’ll likely have access to one of 3 different investment accounts that can help you save for retirement. Here’s who will have access to each:

While there are some key differences between the three in terms of legal structure and requirements, there isn’t much of a practical difference for most savers. The main draw with these plans is the special tax treatment you get to enjoy which is the same across the board.

You can contribute to these plans in one of two ways:

  • Traditional or Pre-tax Contributions

Money going in is tax deductible for the year you contribute, gets to grow tax free within the account, and withdrawals get taxed as income during retirement.

  • Roth or After-tax Contributions

Money going in gets taxed with the rest of your income that year, gets to grow tax free within the account, and is tax free when withdrawn in retirement.

This tax treatment presents two opportunities for savers:

  • The potential to profit off of the difference in your tax rate now vs. in retirement.

For example, if you plan on having a higher income in retirement than you have now, Roth contributions can make sense; and if the opposite is true, then Traditional contributions can make sense. In real life, this gets a little more complicated. Fortunately, there are some sophisticated calculators out there that can help guide your decision. Another strategy to consider is to simply split contributions between both as you don’t have to go all in on either.

  • Freedom from taxes on income and capital gains generated within the account.

That second point is probably going to be the most important for savers. If you were to invest money side by side in a brokerage (taxable) account and Roth 401(k) in identical investments, after a year you’d always have more in the Roth 401(k).

This is because when you sell an investment that has appreciated in value or that investment pays you income, you have to pay taxes on that profit unless it’s in a tax advantaged account such as a 401(k). Over time, the amount of money saved by not having to pay these taxes can be incredible!

One key consideration when choosing between Traditional and Roth 401(k) is your student loan strategy. If you are pursuing the Public Service Loan Forgiveness program or even Non-PSLF forgiveness, it usually makes more sense to make all of your contributions Traditional.

The reason is that those contributions will directly lower your Adjusted Gross Income which will subsequently decrease your student loan payments. This allows you to build wealth while simultaneously decreasing your payments. Pretty awesome, right?

For PSLF remember any balance remaining after 120 payments is forgiven tax-free! Therefore, to optimize your strategy you would want to pay the least amount of money over that time.

How to Participate

First of all, in order to take advantage of these wonderful investment vehicles, your employer needs to offer one. Most larger employers will, though some require that you work for a set amount of time before you can start investing.

Once you’re eligible, your employer may automatically enroll you in the plan and start taking payroll deductions from your paycheck to fund the account. I bolded the word “may” for a reason. Some people don’t look at their pay stubs and go years without knowing that they weren’t saving for retirement. It’s important to read up on how your employer handles this benefit and make sure you participate when you can.

If your plan does automatically enroll you, chances are it’ll start taking out a small percentage of your pay for retirement savings, such as 3%. What you need to decide at this point are two things:

1. Is the amount being taken out high or low enough for your current financial situation?

2. Should your contributions be Traditional (pre-tax), Roth (after-tax), or a mix?

Only you are going to be able to answer those questions. Know that with these types of plans, you can always make changes.

How Much Should I Contribute?

This is going to be a very personal decision and there are a number of factors in play. For example, how many working years do you have left? Are you struggling to just pay bills right now and make ends meet? What is your student loan strategy?

Investing is great, but a good case can be made to put it on pause if you’re drowning in credit card or other high interest debt. Oftentimes, it’s best to clean that mess up before putting money into your retirement plan. Plus, determining the amount you’ll contribute will depend on your financial goals and how fast you want to achieve them.

Employer Match

One of the ways employers attract employees and encourage retirement plan participation is by offering to make contributions into the account as part of the overall compensation package. For some workers, they are lucky enough to work for an employer that will simply do this regardless of participation. But for most people, these contributions will be a match to your own contributions. So what does that mean?

Let’s say you work for Company X and they offer the following retirement benefit:

Up to a 100% match on the first 5% of compensation

In this scenario, Company X would match dollar for dollar your contributions into the retirement plan up to 5% of your total salary. In a given year, if you made $100,000 and contributed 5% or $5,000 into the plan, Company X would also put in $5,000. Put in 4%, and they will put in 4%. Now, if you put in 6% or more of your pay, Company X would stop at the 5% mark since the benefit is only up to 5% of compensation.

This type of benefit presents a challenge to the conventional notion of paying off all debt first and then investing. With a match, you are able to realize a 100% gain risk free within the account as long as you contribute.

Because of this, it may be more profitable to contribute to a retirement account before paying off debt, including high interest debt. In general, unless you are struggling and can’t pay your bills, you should always contribute to a retirement account enough to get an employer match.

Now, if it makes sense, you can contribute above and beyond the employer match. Given all of the tax benefits these types of accounts have, you should strongly consider contributing above the match. However, there is a cap on how much you can contribute. As of 2020, the cap is $19,500 per year ($26,000 if you’re age 50+) for 401(k)s, 403(b)s, and TSPs.

One thing to keep in mind is that if you miss contributing to the match or making any contributions in general, you cannot go back in a subsequent year to “make up” for it. Only when you reach age 50 can you contribute beyond the maximum contributions.

Vesting

In order to keep employees, many companies employ a vesting schedule in which you get to take ownership of match contributions over time. If you leave a company before you’re said to be vested in employer contributions, you don’t get to take those contributions with you. To illustrate this, let’s look at the following vesting schedule for Company X:

30% after the 1st year of service

60% after 3rd year of service

100% after 5th year of service

With this type of schedule, you start getting partial ownership of employer contributions after you’ve been with the company for a year, but don’t get full ownership of those contributions until you’ve worked for them for 5 years. So in this case, if you left Company X after 4 years and the balance in your retirement account derived from employer contributions was $10,000, you’d only get to take $6,000 of that with you.

It’s important to note here that when an employer contributes to your account, those contributions go into a separate bucket from your own contributions. The percentage that you “vest” in only applies to the bucket containing the employer contributions. Your own contributions are always owned by you.

Also, some organizations have what’s known as a cliff vesting schedule. Rather than being partially vested after X years of service, this schedule will make you 100% vested after the required years of service have been met. Therefore, this is really an all or none situation. And because every employer is different, it’s extremely important for you to understand what type of schedule is used by yours.

The Downside to Retirement Plans

For all the good things these plans do to help you save for retirement, they come with strings attached. While not an exhaustive list, the big ones for you to be aware of are: plan fees, investment restrictions, early withdrawal penalties, and required minimum distributions.

1. Plan Fees

With the exception of the TSP, where all expenses are presented in the individual fund expenses, each plan will have additional administrative fees that are layered onto the fees charged by the individual investments themselves.

While there’s not much you can do about these while working for a company, they can impact the decision to keep money in a previous employer’s plan or transfer it (rollover) to a new employer’s plan. Plans are required to disclose these fees but don’t make it easy to find that disclosure. If you’re curious about a plan’s administrative fees, search the plan documents for a 404(a)(5) disclosure document.

2. Investment Restrictions

In general, unlike a brokerage account or individual retirement account (IRA), the retirement plans we’ve been talking about don’t let you invest in whatever you want. You’ll typically be restricted to whatever investment options the plan chooses to provide. This usually won’t prevent you from building a decent portfolio within the account, but you might be forced to use investment options that charge exorbitant fees compared to those you’d find elsewhere.

3. Early Withdrawal Penalties

Since these plans are designed to fund retirement, the IRS will hit you with a penalty if you decide to take money out early. How early? The ripe old age of 59 ½ (as of 2020). If you take a distribution or cash out one of these plans, you’re going to get taxed like crazy for the year you do it.

If the money you take out came from traditional contributions, that amount will get added to your taxable income AND you get the privilege of paying an extra 10% of the amount as a penalty!

If the money came from Roth contributions, you don’t pay tax on the contributions BUT you do get that same treatment as traditional contributions for any gains you may have which will get intermingled with your withdrawal of contributions.

4. Required Minimum Distributions (RMDs)

The IRS also doesn’t want people hoarding money and not paying taxes on it indefinitely. At some point, they want to start milking your retirement account for tax dollars. To do this, they subject money derived from Traditional contributions to RMDs once you hit age 72 (as of 2020). Once you reach that age, you must withdraw an amount equal to your account balance as of December 31st the previous year by a number determined by the IRS.

The IRS calls this number a life expectancy factor. In retirement, these RMDs can significantly increase your tax bill and impact the long term viability of your retirement savings. This is one area where Roth IRA contributions can really shine since they’re not subject to RMDs. (Note that RMDs are still required in a Roth 401(k))

Hopefully, you now have a better understanding of how these types of plans work and how to take advantage of this important workplace benefit. While there’s much more to these things in terms of what you can do with them and how to optimize them, you should be able to start thinking about how they’ll fit into your overall plan.

In our next post, we’re going to dive into the basics of investing and the typical options within retirement accounts, so stick tight!

If you are looking for some extra help your 401k or retirement planning, you can book a free call with the YFP financial planning team.

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