A Crash Course in 401k Planning (Part 2): An Intro to Stocks, Bonds, and Funds

A Crash Course in 401(k) Planning (Part 2): An Intro to Stocks, Bonds, and Funds

The following is a guest post from Dr. Jeffrey Keimer. Dr. Keimer is a 2011 graduate of Albany College of Pharmacy and Health Sciences and pharmacy manager for a regional drugstore chain in Vermont. He and his wife Alex have been pursuing financial independence since 2016.

You got your diploma, passed your boards, and landed that job. You’ve gotten your first big paycheck. Maybe you bought something ridiculous with it. All in all though, you feel like you’re adulting pretty well at this point. So, one morning you decide to make a cup of coffee and do something truly adult: log in to your retirement plan for the first time.

At first, things go pretty well. You make a username. You make a password that makes you laugh a bit. Once you’re in, a dashboard says you have a little over a grand invested! Sweet! But you’re just a bit curious, what is it invested in? You scroll over to the link titled “Investment Options” and click it. The page loads.

confused britney spears GIF

Expense Ratios!? Large Cap!? Prospectus!? These aren’t real words!

But they are.

Even though being responsible for your own retirement seems like a daunting task (it is), understanding what you are investing your money in doesn’t have to be. In this post, part 2 of our series on 401k planning, we’re going to talk about the investment products you’re most likely to find in your retirement plan: mutual funds, index funds, target date funds and exchange traded funds. But before we can get into that, we need to talk about the types of financial assets (securities) they’re made of: stocks and bonds.

Stocks

Stocks (aka equities) are your opportunity to become a part owner of a business. By purchasing a portion of a business, known as a share, you have equity in that business, which entitles you to some of that business’s profits. Those profits come to you through an increase in the value of the share you purchased, known as capital gains, or through a direct distribution known as a dividend. Taken together, capital gains and dividends give you, the investor, a return on the money you invested in shares of the company.

For the most part, owning stocks is the main way most people grow wealth through investing in financial assets. Over long periods of time, the potential to grow your wealth by investing in the stock market far exceeds your potential to grow it in something like a bank savings account.

However, there is a trade off.

Unlike a savings account, where the balance will never go down, the value of your investment in a stock (your principal) can go down. Sometimes with a drastic decrease and for no good reason! Don’t believe me? Let’s talk about Snapchat.

From Bloomberg, 2/22/2018:

In One Tweet, Kylie Jenner Wiped Out $1.3 Billion of SNAP’s Market Value

That day, if you held shares of Snapchat (ticker symbol SNAP), they would’ve lost 6% of their value in a day from something as small as a tweet from a member of the Kardashian clan. That wasn’t even the worst single day drop for a stock that year! Facebook took the crown for 2018 (and history) with a 12% loss in a day which eroded almost $120 BILLION from their market value. For perspective, that’s almost the entire GDP of Ukraine lost in one day.

But what does all that mean? I thought stocks were supposed to be awesome. Well, over the long term, they can be. But over the short term, they carry substantial risk in the form of ups and downs to share price known as volatility. And, in the case of individual stocks, share prices can actually go to zero if the company goes out of business (cue Enron).

Bonds

Bonds belong to a group of assets known as fixed income. When you buy a bond, you’re not buying ownership but are instead buying debt. Bonds offer you the opportunity to collect interest from someone else, just like Navient gets from you.

In the world of bonds, money is made primarily from the interest you collect, known as yield. For a typical bond investor, this yield is meant to provide a steady source of income and predictable return on investment.

But again, there’s a trade off.

In general, when you take less risk by investing in bonds, there’s generally less opportunity for growth. Over long periods of time, the difference in growth can be monumental.

Bond investing does have its own risks, though, as they also experience volatility.

When interest rates change, bond prices change. This is because when you buy a bond at one interest rate and the interest rate changes the next day, you need to reprice your bond accordingly to make it marketable for sale to other investors. In short, when interest rates rise bond prices go down. And, when rates drop, bond prices go up.

Your bond can also lose value if the people you’re lending money to fail to pay up (they default) or there’s a perceived risk of them doing so. This will drive up the interest rate on the bond and lower the value of the bond you hold. With the exception of US Treasury bonds, this type of risk (credit risk), is said to apply to all bond investments.

Mutual Funds

So with all the risks associated with stocks and bonds, how do you stand a fair shot at making money over the long term? You work in a pharmacy, not a hedge fund. Thankfully, the financial services industry came up with a solution for the layperson a long time ago: the mutual fund.

With a mutual fund, you outsource the job of picking stocks and bonds to people that know what they are doing (or at least, say they know what they’re doing). These funds collect investor money and invest it according to a strategy that they lay out in a statement called a prospectus.

Aside from reducing risk by investing in multiple stocks or bonds (diversification), mutual funds can also make it much easier for you to choose what you want to invest in. Just like how learning drug classes instead of individual drugs made pharmacy school a lot easier, mutual funds make investing easier by breaking the wide world of stocks and bonds into categories called asset classes. For stocks, funds will typically focus on company size (market cap) and investment style (growth vs. value). And, for bonds, credit worthiness and term (length of bond repayment) are the main factors.

So by now we’ve established that mutual funds make investing easier by helping you with diversification and grouping securities into asset classes. So what’s the catch?

Well, there’s a big one: fees.

Since you’re outsourcing the legwork of investing to someone else, they need to get paid right?

But what’s a fair price?

Should you pay them upfront?

Over time?

What about when you cash out?

Well, depending on the fund, you might get hit all 3 ways. And, if you’re not careful, these fees can make a massive difference in your success as an investor. So what do they look like? For that, let’s look at a really bad fund which shall not be named (fake ticker symbol: FTNBN) and it’s snapshot from the site Morningstar.

Compared to most mutual funds out there, the fees on this fund are really high but, for the sake of argument, let’s say you want to invest $10k in this fund. If you were to give these people your money, you’d find yourself $575 poorer in an instant from their sales load. OK…but they are going to make me money in the long run and “beat the market”, right? Wrong!

If you put your money in this fund 20 years ago, not only did its managers fail to beat the market (measured by the S&P 500 index), but you actually lost money over this time period. How? Poor management probably played a role, but you can be sure the ongoing fees they were charging were the main culprit.

You see, that number called the expense ratio is the amount they take out of your investment every year for the privilege of having your money in the fund. If you were in this fund, you were paying a whopping $551/yr for every $10k you had invested with them. The fund managers don’t just get this money when the fund does well; they get it regardless.

You, the investor, just get bigger losses and smaller gains.

Imagine if this fund charged the 3rd type of fee, the redemption fee, where they actually charge you another percentage of whatever you take out. Ridiculous!

To be fair, this fund was one of the most egregious I could find. Many funds today do not charge sales loads or carry heavy expense ratios. But, chances are, they would if it weren’t for a man named Jack Bogle and a crazy idea he had back in the ‘70s.

Index Funds

Remember how I mentioned that fund above failed to beat the S&P 500 index? They’re not alone. It turns out the majority of funds that rely on professionals actively picking stocks don’t beat their benchmark indexes. This is as true today as it was back in the 1970s when Jack Bogle, the founder of Vanguard, decided to open the world’s first S&P 500 index fund.

The premise was simple. If you can’t beat ’em, join ’em.

Instead of relying on “active” stock picking, his fund would simply track the S&P by investing in every company within the index proportional to their size, a process called “passive management.” This did two things:

1. Gave investors a diverse basket of US stocks

2. Cut down on costs since he didn’t have to hire stock pickers

That last one was a game changer. The success of Bogle’s index fund set off an arms race in the fund industry to lower investor costs. So much so that today you can even invest in some of these funds for free. No load, no expense ratio, nothing. Free. Heck yes!

And it’s likely you have some of these funds in your retirement plan!

But wait, there’s more! Not only are they cheap, they make picking investments easier. When investing in index funds, or indexing as it’s called, all you are looking for is an index to track and a cheap fund to do it. Want to own every publicly traded company on the planet? There’s a fund for that. What if you want to target only real estate investment trusts (REITs)? Yeah, you can do that, too! What about bonds? Yes, there are indexes out there with funds you can buy, too. With index funds, it’s easy to make a portfolio that invests in the mix you want.

But, believe it or not, things can get even simpler.

Target Date Funds

Also known as lifecycle funds, target date funds are a lazy investor’s dream. Chances are, you might be invested in one of these already and not even know it. Many retirement plans have an auto enrollment that puts a percentage of your income into a target date fund as the default investment strategy.

Traditionally, as you get closer to retirement you want to shift your portfolio from more risky assets such as stocks into safer assets such as bonds. While this is a pretty straightforward process, many people are uncomfortable with making changes to their nest eggs themselves. So uncomfortable, in fact, that many people hire someone else to do this for them and pay them an ongoing fee. The mutual fund industry took note, and because they also liked money, worked on a solution they could keep in house.

Their bright idea? The target date fund (TDF).

Basically, a mutual fund company markets a number of funds with names looking like this:

As you can see, there’s a date in the name. All you have to do is pick a fund with a date that best matches when you plan to retire, give that fund money, and…go do something else. Maybe brew some beer. You’re done playing money manager.

How?

A TDF is designed to be an all-in-one, set it and forget it, type of product. Over time, the makeup of the fund (its asset allocation) will shift automatically into a mix that’s more appropriate for your expected retirement date using a formula called a “glide path.” To do this, a TDF is typically comprised of other mutual funds and the TDF’s glide path dictates the mix of those funds within the TDF.

But remember, the fund industry likes money. Since TDFs serve as a convenient wrapper for the mix of funds they contain, you may pay a premium for that convenience. So if you’re someone who hates the idea of having to change or rebalance your portfolio, or spending time on it in general and you just want to keep contributing, these can be a great option.

Exchange Traded Funds

Lastly, you may encounter the newest type of fund in your retirement plan, the exchange traded fund (ETF). An ETF is not all that different than a mutual fund. You get a diverse basket of stocks, you can track an index, and you get charged an expense ratio. But, they are very different in how they’re traded. With a mutual fund, if you want to buy or sell shares you put in an order and that order gets completed by the next day. With an ETF, you can buy or sell your shares instantly just like a stock.

Also, with most mutual funds you need to make an initial investment of a couple thousand dollars. With an ETF, you can invest for whatever the price of a single share costs. This can allow a beginning investor to make a portfolio of many funds without needing a lot of money.

There is one extra “fee” to be aware of though. When you trade a security, be it a stock, bond, or ETF, there’s a cost to facilitate that trade known as the bid-ask spread. In essence, there’s a higher price you can buy a security for and lower price you can sell it for. The difference between those two values, the spread, is the cost paid to the exchange that facilitates the trade. The more something is traded, the more liquid it is said to be, and the lower the spread will be. While not especially important for something you intend to hold long term, it adds a cost to buying and selling that you should keep in mind.

What’s Right for Me?

Now that you have a better understanding of what types of investments are lurking in your retirement plan, the question now is “which one(s) to choose?” Well, just like the decisions surrounding your contributions were very personal, these will also be.

And, there’s no one size fits all approach.

When building your portfolio, there are many factors to consider. Some of the main ones:

  • Retirement Plan
    • Do you plan to retire early or at a traditional age?
    • How much do you need to fund your retirement?
  • Risk Tolerance
    • How much risk you’re able to take
    • Usually related to your age and expected time to retirement
  • Risk Capacity
    • How much risk you need to take
    • Related to your current wealth, savings rate, retirement time frame, etc.
  • Investment Strategy
  • Who’s Managing It?

That last point is extremely important because statistically speaking, Americans are horrible at investing on their own.

Why?

Because much of your success as an investor is going to be driven by how you behave in different conditions. If you’ve ever heard the old adage “buy low and sell high” you may be surprised by how many people do the exact opposite. While there are many benefits to the DIY approach in managing your investments, it can sometimes help to have a professional help manage you. Aside from having the knowledge to build a portfolio that meets your needs, a financial planner can help you navigate the ups and downs of your investing career in a way that keeps you on track. If you feel like having that guidance, support and expert knowledge in helping you navigate your investments and portfolio, schedule a free discovery call with YFP Director of Business Development, Justin Woods, PharmD to see if YFP Planning is a good fit for you.

Current Student Loan Refinance Offers

Advertising Disclosure

[wptb id="15454" not found ]

 

A Crash Course in 401k Planning (Part 1)

A Crash Course in 401k Planning (Part 1)

The following is a guest post from Dr. Jeffrey Keimer. Dr. Keimer is a 2011 graduate of Albany College of Pharmacy and Health Sciences and pharmacy manager for a regional drugstore chain in Vermont. He and his wife Alex have been pursuing financial independence since 2016.

If you’ve been following Your Financial Pharmacist for a while now, chances are you’ve been coming up with a game plan to deal with your debts and form a solid financial foundation. Is investing part of that financial foundation or plan?

Yes?

No?

Maybe?

While cleaning up your balance sheet or having some cash tucked away for a rainy day is great, that alone isn’t going to get you to financial freedom or prepare you for retirement. For that, your money needs to go out and hustle for you, meaning you need to invest it.

But how do you get started?

To help answer that question, we are going to give you a bit of an investing and 401k planning crash course with a focus on workplace retirement plans. Over the next few posts, it’s our hope that you learn a bit more about what they are, how they work, and how to manage them. With pensions becoming an endangered species (unless you’re a government employee), you can bet that you alone are responsible for your own retirement planning. The more informed you are, the better.

Alphabet Soup: The 401(k), 403(b), and TSP

So if you don’t get a pension, what DO you get as a retirement benefit from work? Well, depending on who you work for, you’ll likely have access to one of 3 different investment accounts that can help you save for retirement. Here’s who will have access to each:

While there are some key differences between the three in terms of legal structure and requirements, there isn’t much of a practical difference for most savers. The main draw with these plans is the special tax treatment you get to enjoy which is the same across the board.

You can contribute to these plans in one of two ways:

  • Traditional or Pre-tax Contributions

Money going in is tax deductible for the year you contribute, gets to grow tax free within the account, and withdrawals get taxed as income during retirement.

  • Roth or After-tax Contributions

Money going in gets taxed with the rest of your income that year, gets to grow tax free within the account, and is tax free when withdrawn in retirement.

This tax treatment presents two opportunities for savers:

  • The potential to profit off of the difference in your tax rate now vs. in retirement.

For example, if you plan on having a higher income in retirement than you have now, Roth contributions can make sense; and if the opposite is true, then Traditional contributions can make sense. In real life, this gets a little more complicated. Fortunately, there are some sophisticated calculators out there that can help guide your decision. Another strategy to consider is to simply split contributions between both as you don’t have to go all in on either.

  • Freedom from taxes on income and capital gains generated within the account.

That second point is probably going to be the most important for savers. If you were to invest money side by side in a brokerage (taxable) account and Roth 401(k) in identical investments, after a year you’d always have more in the Roth 401(k).

This is because when you sell an investment that has appreciated in value or that investment pays you income, you have to pay taxes on that profit unless it’s in a tax advantaged account such as a 401(k). Over time, the amount of money saved by not having to pay these taxes can be incredible!

One key consideration when choosing between Traditional and Roth 401(k) is your student loan strategy. If you are pursuing the Public Service Loan Forgiveness program or even Non-PSLF forgiveness, it usually makes more sense to make all of your contributions Traditional.

The reason is that those contributions will directly lower your Adjusted Gross Income which will subsequently decrease your student loan payments. This allows you to build wealth while simultaneously decreasing your payments. Pretty awesome, right?

For PSLF remember any balance remaining after 120 payments is forgiven tax-free! Therefore, to optimize your strategy you would want to pay the least amount of money over that time.

How to Participate

First of all, in order to take advantage of these wonderful investment vehicles, your employer needs to offer one. Most larger employers will, though some require that you work for a set amount of time before you can start investing.

Once you’re eligible, your employer may automatically enroll you in the plan and start taking payroll deductions from your paycheck to fund the account. I bolded the word “may” for a reason. Some people don’t look at their pay stubs and go years without knowing that they weren’t saving for retirement. It’s important to read up on how your employer handles this benefit and make sure you participate when you can.

If your plan does automatically enroll you, chances are it’ll start taking out a small percentage of your pay for retirement savings, such as 3%. What you need to decide at this point are two things:

1. Is the amount being taken out high or low enough for your current financial situation?

2. Should your contributions be Traditional (pre-tax), Roth (after-tax), or a mix?

Only you are going to be able to answer those questions. Know that with these types of plans, you can always make changes.

How Much Should I Contribute?

This is going to be a very personal decision and there are a number of factors in play. For example, how many working years do you have left? Are you struggling to just pay bills right now and make ends meet? What is your student loan strategy?

Investing is great, but a good case can be made to put it on pause if you’re drowning in credit card or other high interest debt. Oftentimes, it’s best to clean that mess up before putting money into your retirement plan. Plus, determining the amount you’ll contribute will depend on your financial goals and how fast you want to achieve them.

Employer Match

One of the ways employers attract employees and encourage retirement plan participation is by offering to make contributions into the account as part of the overall compensation package. For some workers, they are lucky enough to work for an employer that will simply do this regardless of participation. But for most people, these contributions will be a match to your own contributions. So what does that mean?

Let’s say you work for Company X and they offer the following retirement benefit:

Up to a 100% match on the first 5% of compensation

In this scenario, Company X would match dollar for dollar your contributions into the retirement plan up to 5% of your total salary. In a given year, if you made $100,000 and contributed 5% or $5,000 into the plan, Company X would also put in $5,000. Put in 4%, and they will put in 4%. Now, if you put in 6% or more of your pay, Company X would stop at the 5% mark since the benefit is only up to 5% of compensation.

This type of benefit presents a challenge to the conventional notion of paying off all debt first and then investing. With a match, you are able to realize a 100% gain risk free within the account as long as you contribute.

Because of this, it may be more profitable to contribute to a retirement account before paying off debt, including high interest debt. In general, unless you are struggling and can’t pay your bills, you should always contribute to a retirement account enough to get an employer match.

Now, if it makes sense, you can contribute above and beyond the employer match. Given all of the tax benefits these types of accounts have, you should strongly consider contributing above the match. However, there is a cap on how much you can contribute. As of 2020, the cap is $19,500 per year ($26,000 if you’re age 50+) for 401(k)s, 403(b)s, and TSPs.

One thing to keep in mind is that if you miss contributing to the match or making any contributions in general, you cannot go back in a subsequent year to “make up” for it. Only when you reach age 50 can you contribute beyond the maximum contributions.

Vesting

In order to keep employees, many companies employ a vesting schedule in which you get to take ownership of match contributions over time. If you leave a company before you’re said to be vested in employer contributions, you don’t get to take those contributions with you. To illustrate this, let’s look at the following vesting schedule for Company X:

30% after the 1st year of service

60% after 3rd year of service

100% after 5th year of service

With this type of schedule, you start getting partial ownership of employer contributions after you’ve been with the company for a year, but don’t get full ownership of those contributions until you’ve worked for them for 5 years. So in this case, if you left Company X after 4 years and the balance in your retirement account derived from employer contributions was $10,000, you’d only get to take $6,000 of that with you.

It’s important to note here that when an employer contributes to your account, those contributions go into a separate bucket from your own contributions. The percentage that you “vest” in only applies to the bucket containing the employer contributions. Your own contributions are always owned by you.

Also, some organizations have what’s known as a cliff vesting schedule. Rather than being partially vested after X years of service, this schedule will make you 100% vested after the required years of service have been met. Therefore, this is really an all or none situation. And because every employer is different, it’s extremely important for you to understand what type of schedule is used by yours.

The Downside to Retirement Plans

For all the good things these plans do to help you save for retirement, they come with strings attached. While not an exhaustive list, the big ones for you to be aware of are: plan fees, investment restrictions, early withdrawal penalties, and required minimum distributions.

1. Plan Fees

With the exception of the TSP, where all expenses are presented in the individual fund expenses, each plan will have additional administrative fees that are layered onto the fees charged by the individual investments themselves.

While there’s not much you can do about these while working for a company, they can impact the decision to keep money in a previous employer’s plan or transfer it (rollover) to a new employer’s plan. Plans are required to disclose these fees but don’t make it easy to find that disclosure. If you’re curious about a plan’s administrative fees, search the plan documents for a 404(a)(5) disclosure document.

2. Investment Restrictions

In general, unlike a brokerage account or individual retirement account (IRA), the retirement plans we’ve been talking about don’t let you invest in whatever you want. You’ll typically be restricted to whatever investment options the plan chooses to provide. This usually won’t prevent you from building a decent portfolio within the account, but you might be forced to use investment options that charge exorbitant fees compared to those you’d find elsewhere.

3. Early Withdrawal Penalties

Since these plans are designed to fund retirement, the IRS will hit you with a penalty if you decide to take money out early. How early? The ripe old age of 59 ½ (as of 2020). If you take a distribution or cash out one of these plans, you’re going to get taxed like crazy for the year you do it.

If the money you take out came from traditional contributions, that amount will get added to your taxable income AND you get the privilege of paying an extra 10% of the amount as a penalty!

If the money came from Roth contributions, you don’t pay tax on the contributions BUT you do get that same treatment as traditional contributions for any gains you may have which will get intermingled with your withdrawal of contributions.

4. Required Minimum Distributions (RMDs)

The IRS also doesn’t want people hoarding money and not paying taxes on it indefinitely. At some point, they want to start milking your retirement account for tax dollars. To do this, they subject money derived from Traditional contributions to RMDs once you hit age 72 (as of 2020). Once you reach that age, you must withdraw an amount equal to your account balance as of December 31st the previous year by a number determined by the IRS.

The IRS calls this number a life expectancy factor. In retirement, these RMDs can significantly increase your tax bill and impact the long term viability of your retirement savings. This is one area where Roth IRA contributions can really shine since they’re not subject to RMDs. (Note that RMDs are still required in a Roth 401(k))

Hopefully, you now have a better understanding of how these types of plans work and how to take advantage of this important workplace benefit. While there’s much more to these things in terms of what you can do with them and how to optimize them, you should be able to start thinking about how they’ll fit into your overall plan.

In our next post, we’re going to dive into the basics of investing and the typical options within retirement accounts, so stick tight!

If you are looking for some extra help your 401k or retirement planning, you can book a free call with the YFP financial planning team.

Current Student Loan Refinance Offers

Advertising Disclosure

[wptb id="15454" not found ]